GARETH JONES DIARY-

GARETH JONES FINAL DIARY

Transcribed by MARGARET COLLEY

Written in June and July 1935, before he was captured by Bandits in Northern China, and finally died on August 12th, the Day before his 30th Birthday.

Shanghai - Sunday June 23rd to Sunday June 30th 1935.

Sunday - Wrote articles, Palace Hotel, bought picture by Wong Ya Chun of Swallows. Saw “Black Fury” very good.

Monday Mail including $400 for 2 articles, got luggage, moved to Y.M, dined at Mr Percy Tilly’s with daughter Leila and Sybil Mclorn, went to dance in Paramont with them, had tea with Tiriçoon at Reuters.

Tuesday - Lunch with Howard at Metropole University Club, saw Miss Hender, and Revi Alli took me to see the Mills and Houses where contract labour girls work. Dined in the Evening with Mr Harold Porter, he fears the Japanese in Shanghai are trying to a get a grip on Shanghai. That morning, his car had been held up by six Jap armoured cars in Bubbling Well Road. Dined in the old Chinese house in the evening.

Wednesday - Lunch 1 with the Tilly’s at the Club, and went with Revi Alli to see Japanese places and boy labour. Saw Woodhead at 10.00 and called to see Howard on aviation. Woodhead favours the Japanese. Dined with Cheng who took me to Vienna.

Thursday - Lunched with Mitchell, Shipping man, Butterfield and Swine. Went to see Cardinal Richlieu with Zena,in the evening, Supper, bed early. Saw Grey at 2.30, Banks China, talked on Silver, Randall Gould at 3.00, went to see Press Office at Shanghai. Municipal Council feared the Japanese. Telephone police etc. language in Gazette.

Friday - Cheng did not turn up to lunch, called to see Kwei, who asked me to the China Critic Dinner, then to Santa Anna in Vienna.

Also went to American Consulate to see about films, no propaganda yet, and also Major Ferguson.

Saturday - Commercial Counsellor Calder Marshall also. Dined with Brahams (Harold), [Athlete] Guy Livingstone and Mackenzie at the Country Club then went to Blue Danube in Vienna. Saw cid city.

Sunday, June 30^th went to see Baroness Von Ungon Sternberg, met Cheng at 2.0 with Pax, went to see Mickey Mouse, dull day, sleepy, went to Rue Lafayette, caught train to Nanking.

Subject: Cheng (section in German)

Nanking - The Ministry of Justice instructs that death sentence shall be executed by strangulation machines, instead of stranglers. The order, also instructs that the Prisoners sentenced to death be first Chloroformed if possible before execution, however, prior to the installation of strangulation machines, death sentences shall continue to be executed by Stranglers.

Interview - Dr Shih Mo, Vice Minister for Foreign Affairs

“The military in North China, seem to be able to do anything they like, nothing comes through Diplomatic channels, the Jap Embassy here only deals with us in small details and of no significance. Our Embassy in Tokyo has very little work. The youngest Officers are out of hand, they can do anything, they are backed up and even the Older Generals at home have lost power, the Foreign Office can do nothing

The Kwantung Army has the task keeping peace in the North. What can we do? Nothing, our forces are being used against the Communists. We must wait, we will be able to absorb Conquerors as we always have. Our enemies the Japanese refuse to listen to reason, we cannot argue with them, they always point a Pistol at our heads and say ‘Yes or No’, there’s no discussion at all, you’ve got to accept or are attacked. If we resist we will lose more territory, they want to control the Yellow River. It is humiliating but we can do nothing”. Unity is coming, there are definite signs that Canton is coming round. When China has finished off the Communists in Sichuan, Kwangsi and Kwangtung, will come to the National Banner. The Japs believe that the Unification of China would be bad for them. I try to convince them of the contrary. They think a United China would fight them, but we’d have to have a strong Navy, and look at the navy we have. No, a United China would be of help to the Japs, because of improved trade.

Great Britain has realised this, and since 1926 laid stress on Unification and on better trade. We are now left to ourselves.”

“The Japs in Tokyo did not know there would be the Manchu incident on September 18th 1935, Chahar and Hopei cannot be defended. The Japs want to make us into an India, if they feel they cannot achieve It they will try to make us into a kind of Egypt.”

Interview with Dr Foo -

Why have the Government not even made a protest against the Japanese actions? Why have they acquiesced in her deeds?

“Humiliating but we are powerless”.

T.T.Li - We know that the Japs want to control Kalgan, an act of strategic importance, the route to Outer Mongolia. There is a silent bitterness throughout the country, but the papers etc are not allowed to express it, but the resentment is there, there is a national feeling.

Dr Ting - Inner Mongolia is exaggerated, Military completely strategic, the climate, the products - economic motives are the excuse. The Japanese Military want to make China the Empire and control China, there is Iron Ore in Manchukuo and Magnesium. The USA are jealous, the Japanese will attack Philippines, Borneo and later on Singapore, war not necessary, suffice Europe. Trouble.

(Soldiers are out of step and in slippers). Manchukuo is very rich, reason the rainfall. Mongolia no Waterhole.

Interview - Charles Tommy En Ku - Chiang K S, is a very sick man and cannot last many years, that is why we fear he does everything himself, even gives commands to sergeants, gives no power outside himself. No successor in view, Wang not strong, political illness when trouble, he just skedaddles from Nanking.

T.T Li. We’ve wasted 5 years fighting the communists by arms, when we should have fought them by diplomacy, and politic. They’re honest, we should have come to a compromise, You’ve no idea what a fortune has gone into the fight with the communists.

Chiang has bad teeth, indigestion and general breakdown.

T.T. Li - We wish Britain would show her teeth more, we are disappointed in Sir Samuel Hoares statement in the House of Commons.

Even the weather has been against us, last year a drought, this year floods. In 1931 the Japanese chose the right period, because we had been weakened by the worst floods in 100 Years. Japanese always choose the right time. In the Great War -demands.

Sugil – Chiang’s health is not so bad as they say or he couldn’t work so hard. How Japs bring pressure to bear on contracts, Railway Roads.

Peking - July 4th - Arrived Thursday morning, went to Legations Hospice, Room $3.25, Scents in Peking excellent. Went in afternoon to see Timperley, who is very helpful.

Friday July 5th - Ambassador Sir A Cadogan, Jones - What should British Politicians do? “Very difficult, people say they should want a more positive policy, but they cannot define it. We must leave the trade to themselves, except when treaty rights are infringed, some say ‘send Gunboats’, but how can you do that”.

Jones - “Understanding with Japan?”

Ambassador - “No it depends of course on how far understanding would go, but it would damage Great Britain in China and make people think we are Pro Japanese.

Amau sends Balloons sometimes, to see how far he can go, they allow Majors etc to do it, to launch balloons, because they can repudiate them. Our interests in Northern China are reall₂’ not so great. Kaolin Mines, Oil and Tobacco. The Japs want to develop North China economically, but everything is in the lap of Gods. We do know what the next step is.

Jones bewildered

Faulkner - North China will become great and prosperous industrial region under Jap control, Peking will be a great industrial centre — ‘Fin sit’ Nanking disastrous - third rate. All the money has gone in buying up the provinces. Opium is the only profitable business.

Major Takahashi - Military attaché, Fisher asked him about roads planned by the South Manchu Commission, Kalgan.

Takahashi -“When the trouble comes we will need the roads for strategic purposes.”

“What do you mean, when the trouble comes?”

“The two systems, Bolshoi and Japanese, cannot exist side by side, there will be trouble, the negotiations over the Outer Mongolian, Manchukuo frontier will fail and there will be frontier incidents”. “We may demand in Chahar there shall be no further Chinese colonization in Chahar”. “We must have control over Inner Mongolia for purposes of defence”. He grinned and showed his Gold teeth.

Jap counsellor Wakatsugi - We wish to increase economic prosperity of North China, Manchukuo and Japan. Having formed the state of Manchukuo. We wish to stop the barriers which have been put up between the countries. Our aim is to increase communications; it is only recently that the telephone service has been renewed. For our own reasons, we want cotton to be grown here, especially in Shan-tung and we wish to set up Japanese factories In Tien-tsien and Tsing-hai.

Jones - “Will that be in the best interests of textile factories in Japan?”

Reply “There will be different quality, and the factories in North China will be for the Chinese market. We want to raise the standard of living here, and also develop the raw materials. But we do not want to tear it away from China”.

Jones - How about Mongolia?

Reply- “In the interests of self defence, we must maintain influence in Mongolia. Its against the communist menace from the north. We must have a barrier there against Bolshevik propaganda, which would be disastrous. Asia.

We want to help the Mongols in their autonomy, if the Chinese could defend themselves against the Northern influence, there would be no need for us to do anything, but the Chinese are too weak, therefore we must take measures of self defence.

Here it is quiet now. Certain movements here, knowingly the Chinese G.P.U and anti-Jap movements are stopping good relationships between Manchukuo and North China, we made demands for the dissolution of these bodies, the Chinese dissolved them of their own accord so as not to lose face, but of course following desires which we had expressed.

Amoy (welsh term ) Japan has complete grip over Amoy, when I came to Amoy in 1926 there were only 3,000 Formosans, now there are 30 - 35,000 and they are coming more and more. The Chinese hate the Formosans because they are Japanised and the Formosans hate the Japs. They can do anything at all, they pay no attention to the law, and they refuse to pay taxes.

I arrested Korean for attempted murder. There were witnesses, the husband who was the victim, wife, two concubines and a servant. Took the case to Jap Consular Court, “Dismissed for insufficient evidence”.

You can smuggle anything you like, you can get in Jap Firearms, and they’re very cheap. We arrested some rioters, “Where did you get the firearms?” was the question. “Japanese”, was the reply at last.

Inner Mongolia

The Kalgan Club - On 13/5/34 at 20.42, no drinks could be procured, the bar being invaded by ladies. “People must not bring their own wives, then there would be no complaints about ladies being at the bar”. Other writer - did not bring my wife, she came”.

[visite] Journey with beautiful scenery, saw great wall, Americans. The river, three horses were drowned with sudden floods. Kalgan hotel.

The caps in China have the gift of making themselves bigger or smaller ie.Lamas

The Mongols loathe the Chinese, they ride Donkeys, Mongols do not go in for petty cheating ie selling poor quality silk, Mongol princes are honest and they like it.

“Mind the Dogs, they go for the throat and can kill”, Mongols 4 eyed dog, the sight spot over the eyes.

Wong Sang defended (This is the document he signed)

We the undersigned, herewith certify that we are going to visit Inner Mongolia on our own risk, for any eventualities which may happen during our travelling. We carefully considered all warnings of local Chinese Officers, who will take no responsibility should anything happen to the undersigned.

Kalgan 11^th July 1935 - Purpose to visit the “King of Kalgan?”, “No, Mongolia”. Statuesque ***** asked us for our visiting card.

Friday, up at 4.00, Baron shaves and puts on shorts, whistles, Müller.

(Argument in bar at Grand Hotel)

English came drunk 2 o’clock, sorry no Whisky (hic hic). “I can tell your nationality”. What? “Belgian”. Why? “English gentlemen don’t whistle, only Belgians”.

Caravan leading two cars and one big truck filled with all kinds of goods for the Mongolians. Out, narrow streets, walks, early morning, dogs and man sleeping, Rickshaws. Tarass Bulba huge Cossack groom comes and sits next to me. Three Russians and myself in car, driver says, don’t be disappointed if we don’t get further than 12 miles, flood may have blocked the road. Horses in the morning. Soldiers, formerly General Sung come to the gate, Foreign Office Rep - grin, shakes hands of all, sudden shout of “soldiers” - Müller.

Mongol Steppes - Forget me nots flower, saw bridge, children, red trousers, headdress. Chaha Suniya border, three days by horse. Tarass Bulba - head like egg, flowers. Choosing the horse and rider, whip lasso, 600 horses all sticking together side by side affectionately. Its against the wolves, who will kill the horses. In Outer Mongolia, they reckon 5% die from the wolves, they even kill big horses.

Saturday July 13th - Woke up, good sleep, cold morning, sound of horses hooves, and camels, just nearby about 600 Horses, choosing is testing, branding difficult. Kippers for breakfast.

Muller - The prince of West Sunnit (Teh Wang).

Teh Wang, owns about 35,000 horses, 30,000 Camels etc, and the land all the way to the Outer Mongolian border. About 20,000 the Sunnit form the tribe, the Prince is the judge, it is a matter of life and death. Every one of the tribe must enter, or else they must come and serve you. Very hard for the Japs to control here. How can they do it? Drop a few bombs on the Steppes. Very Independent characters.

Beidzemias - Jap officers of the Kwantung army at Dolonor, Utchimutchin is down at Beidzemias

Society for friendly relations with neighbouring nations by delegates, medical mission to Mongolia.

Japanese Society for Study of Lamaism

Japanese have wireless stations (sending and receiving at all these places), and all stations are connected by motorcars and aeroplanes. In Teh Wang Foo there is a Japanese Hospital. Planning to develop roads. Probably before long there will be an autonomous Mongolia with treaty of friendship and commerce with Japan.

You pick up pieces of Agate. Fire made of horse dung. A mile is much further in Mongolia than elsewhere. Saw two Beetles, black, walking backwards and pushing snail. No Post Office at all in Inner Mongolia.

Saturday July 13th 1935 - Horses, still choosing, fine riders now they catch horses with a whip lasso, running after it, amazing no fall. Ground a little sandy with tiny stones heaps of flowers.

Wandered about - 10.20, off to Princes bouncing up and down over the Steppes, no road, fine, just the same sensation as aeroplane, but road is bumpy. Of lone rider, sheep, steppe land about one hour.

Müller said, that’s where the aeroplanes land, Japanese planes come very often.

The Panchen Lama has been here for a long time.

Palace - 2 palaces, one for Panchen Lama, and other for Prince Teh Wang.

Chinese Court, very long grey walls not high and white wall on which blue fish were painted. Soldiers come out, all teeth and pigtails in very dark old uniforms, but very fine silver work on their daggers and belts. One soldier stopped the car by putting up rifle, and grins, other soldiers come delighted, (unlike the Chinese), when we photographed them.

We drove to the Yamen where Yurts stand, a low white washed building with a grey roof, then Yurts. We are taken inside a Yurt, it is round, made of sheepskins and wool, warm and comfortable. Man in silk, (very old), blue dress with sash (purplish/red) round the middle, come and bow, and lead us in. We sit on the seats of honour, beautiful silver work on dagger and belts.

Mongol houses look very much like Adobe house in Pueblo. Priest boys, Panchen Lama.

When Mongols greeted each other, they took their beautiful snuff bottles of different colours and stones, hand them to one another, pretend to sniff and hand them back.

Met Mr Pao, Chinese, is captured by communists, prisoner, he seized one of hats of communist, walked out and escaped!

At the temple, Lama priest and children, great joke, all laughing and Chief priest is very fat, laughing, red gowns holds out coloured stick with Joss incense burning, but he chuckles all the time, man beats piece of wood.

Chinese Temple with dragon heads looking down. They sing for a long time, all the same tune and then tone something like R.C. Brilliant colours of the temple, but the boys in purple cloaks, some yellowish dirty cloaks, they had hats like Roman soldier with yellow mane, the boys looked jolly.

Old man sits at the door of the temple, mutters into his hand and boys reply. Open air courtyard raised above the yard as entrance to the temple. A collection of bells with beautiful sounds. Boys looked at each new arrival. Mongols, which joins, no spiritual feeling. Bells hang from gables. Man in comical red hat, then turns wheel, 23 on side and one big wheel, words written on it in Mongolian, cylinder about a foot high.

Priests come to see my hairy legs, look in wonder and point. Mongol in red cloak turns each cylinder, He has prayer beads. Cylinders on two sides North and South.

5.30 in the afternoon - the priests have no pigtails - hair cut short. They sit cross legged (Larks in the sky, Swallows swoop about and chirrup).

The chief on the floor makes noise, loud little Rub-a-dub, seems to wink at us, big gong, outburst from the big man on floor, crescendo, (laughs) declining, then a roar from the man on the floor with a big moustache about 5 inches long.

Plessen, “Most extraordinary divine service I’ve ever attended in my life. I’ve seen, just like Negro or like Gwyn Rees.”

Carvings of dragons in gold with green neck, dragons on the roof, Chinese influence. Chief comes, fat, suddenly draws heavy stick and right in middle of service, strikes a boy on back and on head in punishment. ‘What’s that for?’ asks Plessen, just before, we thought it was part of the ceremony. The priest, big bead, grown up priest looked dumb, they don’t wear the yellow hats.

Went with Sir Charles Bell to Panchen Lama’s Palace. “You see that the Chinese have much more influence here than in Tibet”.

Went towards the Lama’s residence outside the fine Chinese Temple like structure next to the mud huts of the Chinese buildings and workings.

Müller, “This is a Vegetable Garden built by the Chinese. The Mongols don’t have them, they have a belief that it is wrong to touch the surface of the earth, they don’t even dig the earth. They don’t bury their dead. A dead man is tied on a rope on to a horse and is dragged by the horse with the rider, off into the Steppes, until the corpse falls off or is lost, the rider must not look back. There the body is left on the Steppes. The birds and wolves come and eat the bodies.

Müller - “Lama’s murder men who put curse - 3 days. Murder, Lasa - 3 priests not true, one piece true - name of village.

Mongols just bought rifles from the Japanese, they applied to Nanking, but Nanking offered a price about 20% higher than Japanese prices.

Dr Erskine - “The Prince was diseased, and all his babies died, one each year, then I gave him a cure, and now his children live and he is very grateful to me. Mongols absolute lack of self-consciousness and love being photographed, will come and sit by your side when you eat, will come and stare. The boy priests now sitting down and staring at me.

Festival in honour of the spirits of the mountain.

July 14th - 5 O’clock - Time to get up shouts Plessen. Liang 45 years old, looks like old preacher, looks very elegant, his artificial silk socks over his trousers up to his knees.

Erskine came into hut where mother had had son captured by bandits, she is muttering Mana Patmako. "Those wonderful jewel of the Lotus flower, it is praise to Buddha, who is born in a Lotus flower".

Pre Buddha Spirit worship, they believe that there is a Spirit in the Mountain.

Wrestler came to Erskine, he’d been getting old and wanted medicine to make him strong again.

This is a feast to the Spirit of the Mountain.

Princes little son aged 5, had a little red hat on with a number of pearls, and a Jade brooch and a brown silk coat with a design on his back and a number of yellow squares. He had a Lama guard.

The cylinders of the priests contain Lama prayers, to turn the cylinders, (the prayer wheels), they regard equivalent to reading, the Lama scripts, many in yellow.

Erskine - The Bolsheviks have started a national movement, in Outer Mongolia to try and get other Mongols to join. Soviet official told a Mongol. What a pity Mongols are divided. They want a Soviet Socialist United Mongolia.

Prince Teh Wang,

Jones - Aims of the Mongols - a unified Mongolia with outside influence.

Prince - “A unified Mongolia without outside influence”

Jones - “Do you mean creating an Outer Mongolia?

Prince —“Yes - we want all the three, coalition under Russia, and the free Mongols to be united into one great nation.”

Jones - “Are signs to a nationalist feeling in Outer Mongolia?”

Prince - “I think there are signs of them wakening the sense of nationality”

Jones “Are there any indications whether the Mongolians in Manchukuo will join a united Mongolia?”

Prince - “I don’t know”

Jones “Best method to attain united Mongolia, would it be with Japanese help?”

Prince - “Our aim is to attain it independently without any outside help.

Jones - “What would the attitude be towards Japanese help?”

Prince -“Everyone who sympathises with us is our friend. We Mongolians are divided into three parts, North, East, and the free Mongolians, we are the ones who have preserved root of Mongols, and anything which must be done for unification of Mongolia, must start from us.”

Jones - “What po1icy to adopt?”

P.R - 2 alternatives,

A) Free Mongols to unite with Eastern Mongols and Northern Mongols.

B) Free Mongols to join Northern Mongols and free Manchu Mongols.

Jones - “Which policy?”

Prince - “Wait and see, depends on developments” He yawned, seemed very tired, cunning eyes, sharp diplomatic replies, skilful.

Jones pressed.

Prince - “The Chinese want the people, we prefer to rely on them, but if they treat us badly, (colonization). The Japanese are the second people we would turn to as a last resort. If we are squashed, then we have one choice, it would be to the North, but it does not mean we have sympathy with Russia.

Jones - “Would not any link with Russia mean a blow to the Mongol Princes and destruction of the Mongolian Organisation. Prince - “Yes we realise the dangers.

Jones - “How are the Japanese roads affected”

Prince - “Have heard a rumour, they have no proposals to make a road their cars can use, and fly their aeroplanes.”

Jones - “Have the Japs made any plans for wool and industrial development?”

Prince - “No, they have made no proposals for any development at all, that would come from us.

Aerodromes, said Jones. That was denied.

Jones - “Whats the significance of the visit to the Japanese to Pai Ling-miao?”

Prince - “Merely social”

Jones - “Prospects of war between Russia and Japan, what would the attitude be?”

Prince - “We cannot foretell what will happen, we prefer to await developments”

End of Interview

Jap plane arrives with Japanese officials, flies low over the crowds.

In tent, the Prince is in Blue, light blue silk dragon designs, with dark blue collar and a thick silk black skull cap with red button on top. Next to him, a little boy, Pearls etc. Jade, played with cakes, elder son. Throne is a dragon, blue, red etc. Servants come in and stare, sit cross legged. Prince had revelled, had bow and arrow, very good, had got the bulls eye twice ie knocked out the centre, hard, reddened, very tired and yawned.

Before wrestling, serve mares milk, white is for a symbol of whiteness of Mongol heart. Given a present.

Had peacocks feather on back, had gold purse with red and black design, pigtail.

Looking out of the tent entrance, saw the riders and retainers etc allowed to wear peacock feathers on their heads, they are the peacock feathers, very official, peacock doesn’t signify rank, button on top signifies rank, direct descendant of Genghis Khan.

Before the Princes tent, there is a square cloth (about 20 yards in front), directly in line with the entrance, it is to prevent the evil spirits from entering in the tent.

Wrestling - wrestler leaps dancing, arrows kicked, leather coat studded with white metal studs with a Buddhists wheel on back, wrestlers winner comes to tent and is given presents and cake, he goes back to the field, throws backwards a piece of cake onto the roof of the tent.

In the tent the Prince sits clad in yellow like Lama, very comical yellow hat with red threads, on throne with dragon design, huge mass of cakes before him, and his son on his left with a smaller number of cakes, amount, column (like shortbread), depends on importance.

The Jockeys wear red Buddhist wheel on bright yellow shirt, and bri11iant red kerchief on head. Fermented Mare’s milk is the number one drink, the Champagne of Mongolia, horrible.

Chinese dishes, Lotus seeds, Bamboo sprouts, seaweed, shark’s fin, dates, mutton in soup, about 20 different soups.

Erskine - “The Princes name is sacred, and must not be uttered, a son or daughter must not say the name of a parent, thus it would be blasphemy to say his name, he is known yang Yi, The Prince.

Theory - The Mongols are Scots, or Scots are Mongols. First Shortcake, 2nd Wrestling like Scots games, 3rd Mongolia, 4^th Thistles, 5th The Grouse.

One old ruffian has a sixpenny bit, Queen Victoria, attached to his pigtail as an ornament.

Wrestling, very good sport, no quarrelling as to decision, a grin when defeated. Very religious, every wrestler prayed after a fight, hands in prayer by tent, also prayed before the fight, other Mongol held hat on his head while he prayed. If he won the wrestler bowed before a rainbow.

The Yurt next to ours is closed and guarded by a soldier, it contains the seal of the Prince.

Mongol boy, pleasant face, comes up and pulls the hair on my hand, pulls hair of my knee, then draws the zip of my shirt to see hair on my breast.

After wrestling the winner goes to the Prince, receives lump of tea (block), dances up and down, prays on knees, bows with head on ground, also gets blue scarf and money

The arrival of the Prince, the feast, clocks. The Obo and the ceremony throwing the rice, throwing flour. The Yurt Altar, three gold Buddhas, on each side, offering and raising dates, sweets, dried prunes. Cylinders for the prayer in glass case with gilt dragons above and fish below. Piece of yellow cloth hangs down and blue silk tapestry, picture of Panchen Lama with little hairy fluffy dog (like a Sealyham). On side of painting of Buddha with four hands, (two folded and two outstretched), arising out of a Lotus flower.

Box full and Horse turns at the entrance, fireplace in the middle, no window except at top.

Talk with Mongol officer who speaks Russian, and was in artillery college in Moscow.

“People in Urga are discontented, there are still bread cards there. Two years ago there was a big rising. The Soviets fought against the Lamas and the Princes, and the people don’t like the economy plans. Perhaps there will be a revolt, there are many there who want to join a big Mongolia. I am a nationalist, I believe in a big united Mongolia, with Outer Mongolia, Manchukuo Mongolia and free Mongols. Prince Teh Wang is a great man, and I hope he will be the leader of a united Mongolia”.

“If there’s a war, we will be in a bad position. If the Russians win then we will lose all, the Princes will be crushed and Lamas broken. If the Japs win, they will set up a great Mongolia, but it will be enslaved by Japan. We are in a difficult position. We don’t like the Chinese nor the Japanese nor the Russians. The Russians will give in on all hands, they know they are too weak, and they will yield to the Japs for at least two years.”

Russian Chauffeur - “In the last two months, lots of Chinese have been leaving Urga and returning to China, coming to Kalgan, because it is too bad in Outer Mongolia” He jokingly said, “Because it’s too good there, it’s better in China”.

This version should be at the end of the diary but comes in the center where Gareth placed it.

Streets are guarded on each corner, many houses, by Soldiers with fixed bayonets. Mud Houses, we came through the West gate, (not guarded). Poppy field just outside, lanterns in streets.

Came to the Inn, the room was papered in Chinese account books, smell of Opium, fire stove in middle and Opium boiling by man, who, every now and then drained it through leaves or filter. The man had no hair, a bald shaven head. Anatole was worried “I’ve no visa” I laughed Manchukuo, indeed everybody knows that this is Chaha province, China Then Müller said “I’ve just heard that this became Manchukuo 2 days ago. - The Japs have also occupied Kangpao, on the Kalgan Urgo road, Kuyan and Paochang. The Innkeeper says they intend to occupy Kalgan about August 15th, about 40,000 troops have assembled not far away, 28 Lorries and Soldiers arrived today30 expected tomorrow. Many troops have gone South West.

“The Japs have already opened 3 Brothels here”. We looked at the Opium, “That’s the first thing they introduce, legal Opium, but not for the Japs, funny they haven’t got Heroin Traders yet, but that will come”.

Good supper - Meat, Omelette etc, but sickly smell of Opium - Opium smoking room next door, the Inn, Mud Huts broken down, Soldiers and barbed wire outside.

Friday 26 July - Müller says “Lucky you don’t wear A.O.F.B also, or the Japs would think you were the Anti Oriental Fighting Brotherhood.

Müller - “One is Manchu flag, is the old Republican flag, slightly changed, thats why I think they want to hold China”.

Kalgan will be a preparation for an independent North China, and an independent Mongolia, and there are very few Mongols here.

Went for a walk, smells, to river, sand everywhere, flags. Saw skins being dipped and soaked in the river, one fine dog skin. One Corn or Rice place, Donkey (eyes wrapped round with a cloth), and horse going round and round, they get blind threshing.

Many troops on Kalgan road. Went for a walk on arriving, Lantern on wall and papered with Manchurian and Japanese flags crossed everywhere, Jap and Manchurian flags with more Japanese Flags, then Müller heard music, went through room, smell of Opium, Opium smokers one room, making more Opium in the other room, smell of Opium in the streets, Theatre crowds on one side in the open air, God save Manchukuo soldiers, officers. Lots of sing song girls, saw Jap soldiers.

Last entry

Monday, early morning haze over Mongolia, sentry snoozes, at the palace sentry sings a Mongolian song reading it from Mongolian writing. Women squat on the floor arranging the Silver headdress, Swallows fly, Priests squat facing the sun. Boy with crooked legs strolls about, Passed Japanese hospital, its increased in size over the last 3 months. 4 long low buildings and Gasolene Tanks 3 were being built, this is where the Japanese planes land.

There are no Chickens or Pigs in Mongolia. Went to the Telegraph Office. Last Chinese before coming to Russia, Camels are terrified by the shadow of aeroplanes. Petty in a Chinese car has gone to the city. Followed tracks, two Antelope like skeletons of Cattle.

Parts of Gobi Desert, thyme, beautiful scent, sudden descent 12Oft, ridges and plains stretching for miles. River, but not on map, uncharted land, except perhaps for the Jap military maps. Bumps, Eagles, fine birds, Sacred Mountain had to go long way round. Started out about 5. 30 from Beidzemiao to Utchimutchin, (many ways of pronouncing, Mongolian very different). This is also a sacred mountain, and we must go a long way round.

At night Anatole was scared, on and on, how far from the Soviet frontier? I’m afraid they’ll shoot, I have no documents.

Russian woman is coming, the Lama’s say that the presence of a women is responsible for the downpour of rain, and are sending her away.

Japanese Rep and Kwangtung army are very polite and friendly and hospitable, offer us a room.

20 Japs are in Beidzemiao, Doctors, Officers etc, 17 in Tehwangfoo, one Jap with beard like sailor in the 18th Century, or like Karl Radek.

Offered Mares milk, gave razor blade to lama, accident to car, lamas come in car.

Smile good teeth, intelligent, red silks, beads salmon. 17 x 22 down, Copper 200 in each, 480,000, 6 lots. Wooden floor, cheap mirror on wall. Butter like cream to be put in tea, took it in tea with Mares milk.

Brilliantly designed door, 4 Blue squares on top each in Chinese picture. 3 Chinese wall paintings, Chinese spirits and temples, room for 22 to sit around the wall, 2 windows with glass looking on court.

40 - 50,000 fleeing from Outer Mongolia, most were not able to rescue much of their property, at the most 1 - 2 Camels or Horses, only their riding animals.

Certain amount in German

They have twice money received from Nanking, of $20,000 and another $10,000, but such a small sum is not enough.

Section in German

Who had given Camels and Keeps horses, but there remains much to be done, very little work has been done, even by the princes. In some districts each Alaskan they even tried to raise taxes to use. The Living Buddha puts masses of Mongol butter in my tea, he has a sense of humour, he doesn’t sit on his throne, but on the side. On the table in front of the lower throne there is a yellow purse with a red and green design. Tells brown beads all the time. Priests come with gift of silk, Bright blue, deer - red brown in rolls, in dark brown long robe. One wall painting showed 18th century French influence, and there is a wooden floor.

Section in German

Some have Yurts, some tents, but very bad for in some have to sleep in tent or more and the poverty among them is terrible - little house utensils, and they have only a small pot. “When come?” “They have come since 1931 - some are coming in 1931”. “Why then in 1931?” “Because then they started to bring in really Communist ideas.” “Did they take the herds?” “The herds were confiscated. They must fight their way through by indirect ways, secretly, they had a difficult time to escape the guards.” “Are any lamas? Is there real oppression?” (among them was one of the Lama leaders, who is also the living Buddha) - “The battle yet really of very strength, half of the riders are Lama’s, those who openly support the communists only did it from force.”

Estimate that 1 out of 300 are Communist. (Lama peep through door) wall paper, why no wall paintings, blue thistle on white background.

1910 - 1911 National movement in Outer Mongolia, had first succeeded and the Mongolian National Government rose with the design to have whole of Mongolia and the Outer Mongolian Tro0ps then occupied the whole of Inner Mongolia - Only under the pressure and under advice of the Imperial Russia. Government plans. Urga not given up and war limited to the organisation of Outer Mongolia.

If now today Outer Mongolia exists alone it has not tried to gain influence in the Inner Mongolia. It is the influence of the same Russian policy which the Bolsheviks have copied following the Tsarist methods.

(Lamas peep through the windows like Schoolboys) “They have not tried to make any attempts, any Bolshoi ideas here have to come from China. The Bolshois do not want a united Mongolia under Bolshoi control.”

Face pocked wristwatch, leather boots, green lining and toes turning up. Box with bucket with Mares milk, big kettle.

In 1928 as the Communist Government was put up in Urga, the Communist idea was very strong, unused to Mongolian Nationality, and many people from Inner Mongolia went to Urga, to find out what Communism meant, and were impressed by the imaginative Communism Nationality. In the next year there was however a £chistka[sic] and their nationalistic ideas were scorned and pure communism brought in. Since then there is a sharp division between Inner and Outer Mongolia, very different but there is some interchange of ideas.

One of the Japanese rode past in brilliant Mongol dress, fine Mongol saddle, Blue silk, little black skull cap and button on top.

Müller says “A lot of them do it, much more comfortable, and they think it makes them more popular”

Japs are busy leaving Mongolian books on the table. Met the Chauffeur of the Living Buddha, Yellow leather cap - 4 days stuck in mud in robber district, 300 from living people, Mongol. The living Buddha wanted to know what day of the week it was, Muller had forgotten and had to look.

Russian lady in car - “The Mongols are terrified of the Japs, they said there was no snow last winter because the Japs were here. They dread the aeroplanes because Japs once took a skeleton away or boxes for a museum or research work. They have fantastic legends about the aeroplanes. They’re terrified of the work done by the Japs, and they believe that the cutting up of dead bodies will bring a curse to the land. They will not go to the Jap Doctors, they are afraid, they would rather die than go to a Jap Doctor. The Buriats are willing to go. Muller “They would rather go to Dr Erikson”.

A Mongol leader went to Dairen to speak with the Japs, when he came back his men were afraid. The priests are especially afraid, and say that the coming of the Japs will bring evil to the land.

We went very slowly from Beidzemiao to the land of the Buriats, lovely grass with flowers, much better than the sand we went through on the way to Beidzemiao. More people also arrived at the camp of Prince Otcheroff, Buriat who speaks perfect Russian. What a wonderful view, blue hills in the distance, (30 or so miles) over the border of Manchukuo. Soviet Mongolia is about 110 miles to the North. Russia says Prince came here after the Revolution, but the Mongols would not give him land, he came to the Mongols and started telling them of their history, of Genghis Khan, what the Mongols did 1500 years ago. They were amazed and became friendly, he went to the Panchen Lama, who said there was some free land, and gave his permission for the prince to live there.

The plain green, and sun, blue hills in the distance stretching to Russia. When we came the horsemen went to fetch sheep to be killed for the feast tonight, we could see the flock far away a perfect white.

Went into the Yurt of Prince, big and perfectly clean, even had a bed, Altar with a number of silver cups and photographs of Lamas. The prince is huge, massive speaks perfect Russian, studied law at Petrograd before the war, amazing coincidence, had met Müller in Petrograd in 1911.

The Buriats are much cleaner than the Mongols, they have beautiful milk, butter and milk, had a fine bowl of milk. Otcheroff invited us in, Brandy and Vodka. Suddenly he started to make a political speech to me “You were the secretary of Lloyd George, he is a vigorous old lion, he must come to help us Mongols, we are of the finest race in world. Under Genghis Khan we conquered half the globe, what do we see? We see that parts of Russia like Latvia and Lithuania, who were mere provinces are now independent nations, while we are still scattered and under submission, we who received the tributes of Russian Princes, we conquered Moscow and have had Russians as our Slaves.”

“What do we want?” “We want to become an independent nation under the protection of the League of Nations, we want England to help us, for England could guarantee an independent Mongolia under the league of nations and is the right arm for defence of India”.

“You have seen we are a dying people, perhaps we cannot be saved, but we know that we are doomed if the Japs or the Russians or the Chinese dominate us. We hate the Japs they want to control us. We want to be free. The Chinese are to weak and have been bribing some of the Mongols with money and gifts. The Japs have been doing the same. We have four alternatives, China, Japan, Soviet Russia or ourselves. We must choose ourselves, but the princes are scattered in this area.

Went out - Müller is tight, played with the dogs, came back to Otcheroff’s Yurt, he was red in the face and drunk, “You’ve insulted me” he cried “You from England, German, Russian come and you and the Germans leave me and the Russians remain”. He wants to go on with his speech, “The Japanese they lie, want a grip over the country” they began drinking toasts. Candle door, candle out to the glory of Buriats to an independent Mongolia, then Koster for a joke says “Well here’s to the Japs” and drinks.

I did not grasp for several minutes what was happening, suddenly shrieked to Shuskin, What, you drunk health of Japs, No. Otcheroff (terrible temper) You son of a ---- Mother, great fury terrible cursing in Russian, “I did not say so” all join in, “You are a traitor to your country, the Japs beat you in 1905, yet you drink their health, they are now trying to choke the Mongols and you drink their health”. Shushkin said nothing, it’s Koster, “You lie, You lie, You said it you are a traitor”. Poor Shushkin controlled himself, “I’m going, thank you for your hospitality”. “Come back you’re afraid, you know you drank to the health of the cursed Japs” Shuskin came back and very dignified comes and sits next to Otcheroff, “Look I’m a Russian Officer” Otcheroff breaks in “Yes, yes a Russian Officer and you drink the health of the enemies of the Mongols, the people who are trying to smash our Buriats, You son of a Red”, shouts, perspires, draws sleeves almost going to hit, wife tries to stop him, no good. We leave.

Outside terrific lightning toward Manchukuo, and also from the North, lights up Sheep who are huddled together Neureutz winds, tents rattle, and so to bed.

The Japs are building Barracks says Kulagen, in Beidzemiao, all expect that the Japs will soon send troops. Kulagen also says the one reason Otcheroff got the land with a tribe, was a robber Mongol to the East, and that they would steal cattle until Otcheroff took offensive and stole some of their cattle and captured their men, he cut them open and hid their bodies. When Mongols cannot find any traces of bodies, they become terrified, presumably because they are afraid of the spirits.

Kulagen “In 100 years Mongol will be dead, the spread of disease is terrific, and the chief cause is Lamaism, it leads to lack of young men to work and husbands, the girls have not enough husbands to go round, and they sleep with the Lamas. But Lamas do not found a family, therefore there is no link to keep the girl to one man, and the whole basis of family is wrecked, she goes from one man to another and catches a disease. The Lamas in Beidzemiao are not all diseased. They will not go to Doctors and hate the Japanese, they blamed the presence says wife for plague which attacked the cattle. They believe that the Japs are cruel. Here they believe the Japs will come to raise taxes.

They bring bad news from Manchukuo, Mongols come from there, carrying wood and they are furious because they have to serve in the army because they hate the Japs. In Manchukuo there’s great discontent against the Japs, the leader who went from here to Hsingking returned dissatisfied, and since then all have been loudly cursing the Japs.

They hear an example of how the Japs have beaten and killed the Drivers etc, and that the Japs pay no attention to the rights of the population.

Teh Wang has many opponents who accuse him of being too Pro -Japanese, but they have to be forced to work with the Japs.

I have talked with people coming from Russia - The attempt to collectivise has led to a great decline in Cattle conditions, they are much worse than here, but the Bolshevists have done great things. They have smashed Lamaism - There would be no revolt in Outer Mongolia, because the reds have the machines and the Aeroplanes. I don’t think Mongolia can be saved. The Lamas are too strong. The people have no idea that they have no children because of Veneral Disease. The husband blames the wife, and takes other women, spreading the disease still further. This came about, the people, there is only one child, Otcheroff has no grandchildren, though his daughter and son are married.

The old Russian policy was not to go too far in Mongolia - Shansi offered the Tsar to become part of Russia’s Empire, but the Tsar refused, thinking It would bring so many backward people into Russia, and would not be able to give attention to the others, just the same today. Soviet ambitions do not go beyond Outer Mongolian borders, they have no need to, they know that Inner Mongolia is not so rich as Outer Mongolia, from which they draw a profit every year. The land here is good for Wool.

No one here has any desire to join with Pu Yi, it is foolish to say that the Mongols look up to him as the descendant of the former Emperor. The leaders realise that he is the puppet of the Japanese, that he is their prisoner and to swear allegiance to him would be the same as swearing allegiance to Japan. When you say that perhaps the Mongols would be loyal to Pu Yi you have been listening to Japanese propaganda.

To Ujmutchin, in the wedge between Manchukuo and Outer Mongolia. About 35 - 40 Miles from Manchukuo, and about 25 Miles from Soviet, Mongolian Frontier. Silingol League 3 hours and 10 minutes stuck in River, Mongols in other lorry very friendly and worked wonderfully, they had been stuck in the sandy mud - days, sunset, dogs barking.

Friday - Ujmutchin, tricks before Lamas, amazed, then went for walk to Temple, saw doorways, laughing skulls they roared. (Paintings White upon Red), rows of them, I decided to Photo them later. Heard Lamas blowing horn on balcony. I tried to climb up, but Lama came terrified and barred the way. Saw Sundial, but it was covered with a sheet of wood to keep the Sun away, obviously a very great treasure.

Went to the Yamen, though the Japanese occupied it, leading Jap in Yurt was a man of great charm, fine teeth, tuft of beard, brilliantly humourous eyes. They had a wireless there. Into room came Mongol, on purse was a Nazi design, with swastika, black on white with a red border square, Jap said he had been here since March and had not had a bath. He was having great difficulty with the superstitions of the people. Japs making very little headway, he could not hunt because the Lamas feared that the Guns disturbed the spirits of the Mountains, he could not dig because Mongols believed it wrong to disturb the surface of the Earth, he had not even had the chance to speak to the Prince. Mongolia, is a hopeless job.

I strolled in the Yamen, and came to School with 4 youngsters now writing Chinese and Mongolian script. There was a picture of Emperor Kang Te, most elegantly and faddishly dressed in morning dress ‘come to Jesus’, button collar, striped trousers 2 flags of Manchukuo painted on it. There is also a propaganda poster for a Mongol feast in Manchukuo, probably under Japanese auspices, Wrestling, Riding, Singing etc. Mothers invited to bring children to Doctors, there very good. Came back and made towards the Temple. A terrified Lama saw me and rapidly tried to bar the door, I tried to push my way in, but a lot of Lamas collected, they looked menacing. The push of the Lamas shutting the door was strong and I had to give way. I went to Photograph a Lama who became alarmed and shouted me off, so I failed to photo the laughing skulls. Tried to enter other buildings, man with a rifle came to stop me and the Lamas, shouted threateningly, never seen such a suspicious place. Japs quite right.

From Ujmutchen furrows so deep that the lambs are sheltering out of the wind. Flowers, Irises, mauve Marguerites.

Jones - “The Japs do not feel themselves strong enough here to risk war with Russia yet, they have not built roads, they have not built wells. In a campaign now, they would have risked a Mongol stab in the back. Thus Russian/Japanese war unlikely for some time.

Japs have not enough men yet who know Mongolia. When Takahashi says when the trouble begins, he means a long time hence.

Mongol comes, blows the horn, joins children loves silver paper from Cheese, or from Camera film. Again at the Buriats, the laughing Lama, ‘where is London?’ The setting Sun, tickled by trick with paper.

Orepol - We are an old people, we are like the old man in the Yurt whose family says “Well he’s going to die” what we want is to be independent and live

A) 1) In Manchukuo they have fought against Princes and introduced the elective principle. The Princes are dissatisfied there.

2) In Manchukuo they are fighting against the Lamas and are trying to destroy them. Thus both the Lamas and the Princes are against the Japanese Policy.

3) We have had refugees from Manchu who say that they are ill-treated and the Japanese are cruel. The Mongols have had their rifles taken away by the Japs, or have been forced to sell them for $10 - $20. They love to hunt the Mongol and Manchu wolves etc. But the Japanese have taken away the weapons.

4) We believe that Pu Yi is just a tool, no one believes in him. What, an Emperor who is against the Princes and against the Lamas, or is for the elective principle. There’s something wrong there for the Manchu Emperors defended the Princes.

5) We fear the Japs will try to smash the Lamas here and that they will try to smash the Princes here, as they’ve done in Manchukuo. The Lamas are afraid of new buildings which they have put up in Beidzemias.

3) The Nanking Government asked Princes to give up the Silver Seals, which the Princes had received from the Manchukuo Emperor’s. They worship those Seals, each Mongol Prince has it placed upon his altar. To an educated European it may seem foolish, but we like to cling to our old habits. We told the Nanking Government that we could not give up the Seals, that we received them from the Manchukuo Emperors and not from the Nan King Government.

We have too many Lamas there, when we have an independent Government, we will have Schools and Hospitals, Teh Wang will be our leader.

One Mongol Prince, in order to decrease the Lamas is going to have exams in Tibet, those who fail have to leave Lamaism, and become Soldiers.

Camped out by the Well. On the trail of the living Buddha. Chinese girl with buttons for Gentleman.

Dolonor see middle Beidzemiao, Lapsong (?Pao Chang} - Dolonor, lost way stuck in mud often, slept in a yurt, host offered his wife also in other place. Chinese colonization,

wrong, must not speak to women. Chinese villagers of street very little disease.