WORLD JOURNEY

SIAM AND CAMBODIA

Tuesday April 30th, 1935

Woke up, looked out of porthole, a blaze of red trees on bank, going up the river Menam in the flame of the forest. First impression, primitive. Boat and fat Indian in brilliant uniform, white with gold, guardian out of Arabian nights.

Night - walked out, medley of people and noises. Saw beggar - musician with instrument with the four thin bamboo shoots of different sizes, which played a tune like bagpipes, monotonous and melancholy. Little Siamese girl (about 8) dancing, graceful slow dance, mainly in the movements of her fingers, she’d have 1st finger making a circle, forming the letter ‘o’ with thumb, moves hands slowly, then stretch the fingers and the palms back. She approached me swaying, nearer and nearer, little boys and men watched as she fascinated me with her eyes. Then, just as I thought she was going to touch me, she dropped in prayer before me, putting her hands together.

Wednesday. May 1^st

Visited the Palace of Prince Damary, he was one of the great men of Siam, builder of education, was a member of council of the Ex King. When the Prince came, he was seized and dragged from this palace and now lives in Penang in voluntary exile.

In the next house, a Gibbon leapt on the roof.

String around the walls of the house, put by priests for blessing of house, also for house warming. They also put that saved lard around the ankles, wrist and neck of small children. (Never say 50, they say twice 25. They reckon in periods of 12’s, 12, 24 - 72. Very elaborate at 72)

Many children have gifts from important people in the form of a chain from Prince Dam.

Vishnu mounting Gaudha - figure head of royal war barge in III and IV Keifs.

Gold demon with flame like forms extending from arms and a savage head with big open eyeballs, sharp nose pointing upwards and two sharp tusks. On the back stand Nishim, slim in deep shining blue and with golden crown rising to a sharp point and four arms of Dragon War Barge.

Buddhas in the attitude of meditation. Figures of birds standing just like Birds of Aristophanes. One room - naked man in flames, Hell?

American girl who sat down on the royal throne caused shock, Grand Palace closed down for a year afterwards.

The Gold tributary tree from Chiengimai.

May ~ - Dined with Whittington of the Consulate and we went to a Siamese dancing place. First thing we saw was Ella Millbank and Caroline Salters~ The dancing was very slow on the stage, strange eastern rhythm of band, tawdry atmosphere of beer etc.

Pretty girls dressed in bright colours slowly moved arms and changed the position of the fingers until the fingers were stretched right back. Some say that they can stretch the fingers back until they touch the back of the wrist.

Then young man admires, he goes to the stage, calls the girl he likes and gives her a bottle of beer. The girl goes on her knees and puts her hand to salute and puts the beer bottle aside. Sometimes you give a tical and she will give the garland of white flowers which she wears over her left ear. Give her more and she ~1ill give the red rose above her breast. Give her more and she will give the girdle (silver like) over her shoulder. The girls take it all in amateur way, giggle, laugh, make mistakes.

In the hall lot of dancing girls who make eyes, in modern dress, chic. Danced with one, Waiter came over after and said ‘The girl wants a brandy’. 1 Tical. The girl gets a commission, but it is bad for the girls, makes them soak brandy all the time. Young bloods come every night to pay homage to the same girl and to ask for flowers.

State Palace in which King was borne in the state procession on Coronation Day. Umbrellas of gold, five tiered insignia - like a pagoda.

Relics of the great war, picked up by the Siamese Expeditionary Force in France. Modern Rifles etc.

Mary Lee, cook ~ sloop of spirit, shirtmaker and change hat (reshaping hat)

The Siamese are now in nationalistic mood, they are reforming education and they are attacking the Chinese schools, afraid of having another culture within the nation.

There is a great shortage of doctors and teachers, perhaps too many lawyers.

Mrs D. The queen teaches the young King to pray, not the long prayers but short.

Welsh " club in University, Siamese singing welsh songs.

This permit is issued to visit the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha on Friday.

Rules and Regulations of the Ministry of the Royal Household.

1) Visitors must dress properly. Western dress for men must include collar and necktie. Visitors wearing knickerbockers, plus fours, blazers, sweaters, shorts are not allowed in the Royal precincts, ladies must wear stockings.

Royal Palace

The Americans waiting room, pictures of Ex Kings looking down. There’s no need for me to wear a coat, it’s not on the permit, it only says collar and tie.

"Impudence!" "But you would wear it in the White House?" "But this isn’t the White House, and the White House is Air cooled." "1 went through Royal Palace of Cambodia" "But this is independent." "Ha! ha! ha! Not" "Who rules here!" "Why the British!"

Saturday - Lunched at Legation. There is a lot of corruption, but a complete absence of any principles of democracy. Heaps of people being arrested and imprisoned, no freedom of press etc. There is an awakening in Siam but all ideas are mixed up nothing is clear.

Dinner at Gotsabluh. Dr Koch is a great supporter of the new

regime. They are doing very much more for the people. The

princes used to have a lot of craft. They owned rice mills in the name of other people and factories and often contracts had to be given to these by official bodies although the price was higher.

The people in the country are not so keen on the King. They

understand the constitution and greet it because it gives them certain rights. They are not so foolish. The Siamese are quite right to make the Chinese learn Siamese in schools. The Siamese have fine characteristics or else they would not have maintained their independence.

Former American Minister at Bangkok, Kaufman, meets King at the concert, draws cigar from pocket :- "Say King, have a cigar"

In morning drove to see Pra Riam, Vice President of the Legislative assembly. A clever man with very sharp eyes, smiling. :—

Asiatism : - "No, we are nationalistic but Pan-Asianism does not attract many. We realise that in our situation between Great Britain and France we cannot adopt a movement which is antagonistic to foreigners.

Nationalism, yes, but a sane nationalism. With the Chinese we have come to compromise and concession on hours of teaching.

Japanese - Impression that Japanese influence is not so strong.

Political Parties - At present one party - the people’s party, but I believe that one day political parties will develop. There will be a Nationalistic Wing, a Socialist wing etc.

We are moving towards a moderate type of state Socialism. We want state control but not state ownership. As soon as private man is able to carry on an industry, then the state will willingly give it over. Not doctrinise.

Reasons  Revolt?

The Royal Family was getting all the privileges and being sent to Europe. They were given 150 extra marks.

They were neglecting the education of the people and spending too much money on their own personal needs.

The elephant was captured to the North of Siam. They are very rare, and the capture of a white elephant is regarded as an omen of happiness in a reign. In one reign, 14 white elephnats were captured. That was considered a good reign. A number of people think they are saved for the Kings ride upon them.

Riam - "We are experiencing the French Revolution here."

E. D. - A class struggle, not any increase of Nationalism,

Japanese influence, slight.

The state must help private enterprise, but do not want to go further than the co-operatives. I have made a progression of cooperatives in the country and they accused me of being a communist.

Economically we have the **** to foreign credit co-operatives.

We want to engage foreign experts instead of doing it all ourselves. We are going to address ourselves to the league of Nations and appeal to the council of the League of Nations to send here some experts.

We are still members of the League. We have paid our annual subscription every year regularly. (China who asks for help has not paid).

Cause of vote Assistant **** should be specialised)

People remain faithful to the monarchy, but to the constitutional monarchy. There is no republican movement.

Liberty of the Press

We’ve established a censorship. If a paper publishes false news or any article susceptible of troubling, then we can apply censor. They must send articles to be censored for a period of time, say the week, the month. We cannot accord full liberty, because of the level of culture of the people.

Omit favour, and absolve in beginning. Please be careful. I do not want to hurt the King.

Luang Pradit - Manudharm, State Councillor for the Interior What the Kina Wanted

1) Pardon, the right to pardon, which they feared would be exercised for friends.

2) Abolition of secret trials. Military Tribunal. Open trials in ordinary courts.

3) Abolition of appointed members of the Assembly. All assembly elected by the people.

5) Free and open elections. The last election was held after the rebellion. England, who assisted in suppressing the counter revolution, had a medal "For the Safeguarding of the constitution." Demand for new election, but was no representatives of the people.

The road to the British Embassy has been asphalted with Japanese asphalt. The Japs import crude oil and asphalt as a by-product and so they can sell the asphalt at a very low price.

There will be a military dictatorship, E.D. there is a military dictatorship now with the army in the background.

Jubilee celebrations

Private May 7

American Minister, Mr Baker, pleasant gentleman.

"The newspapers here are greatly influenced by Japan. All the news comes through Japan Rengo (Probably chegu). They are trying to create the view that Japan is of international importance in the Far East".

Mrs Palmer - Had letter from Siamese in Philippines who had attended a private meeting of Japs in which they spoke of dominating the Far East.

"Do you mean controlling also Siam?"

"Well, there should be Japanese influence everywhere."

In crockery there is a great expansion of Japanese trade. But during the boycott the Chinese boys often broke Japanese crockery on purpose.

The Chinese have nearly all the retail and wholesale trade, and they refused to import a lot of Jap goods but now they are willing. Hence a reconciliation with China will have a big effect in Siam, Java etc.

12.5 - At lunch, message (mangosteens) P. M. see you noon! Rush! Rush out to car in street, rushing to Foreign Office.

Soldier, honest, few ideas, in green uniform, bluff no~ intellectual face. Kings of Siam look down. Sumptuous surroundings, weapons of the old Siamese armies.

I apologised for coming in late.

Cigar case of silver with Siamese design of the Garuda. ? complained false news had been published, P.M had taken steps correct it, silly news, Times.

Stout, square round face, smile.

Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) seen from river with the broadcasting station behind. Gunboats, destroyer.

Canoe boat with coconuts being rowed along as in Venice. Anot full of red earthern jugs, the man stands in the back.

Siamese Navy men in khaki uniforms.

Stood near the Royal landing :- procession of barges, rowed by 40, with a musical rhythm and a yell (cry) each time they bring  the oar up perpendicular.

The most useful all round plant, a whole house including furniture could be made out of bamboo. That’s Basketwork, fishing stake, paper pulp, vegetable, seeds can be eaten like rice.

Scented woods, Chaulinugra - the oil of this is the only cure forleprosy in China and Siam.Castor Oil plants, castor beans, look like ordinary beans (haricot) but they are light greyish with brown spots.

Gutter - violin strings, masses of round resin, shape of kneaded bread.

Stellac - Secretion that grows on trees caused by insects. Insect oozes out of body a certain juice on tree, looks like fungus. Stellac - gramophone records, varnishing for cars. (stuken used to smuggle opium). Insulating material from Stellac. Rubber, Coffee.

Diagram (map) - Japans foreign Traders

Minister of Education

End June 2,777 Scholar (all) 1,046,316. (1934) Made a push, drove in everybody.

We must teach them, native, labour, vocational training. Defect

- scholars can’t go back old socialism. Adjusting period (1350 -

1750) all education left to the wats.

2456 - Society stands alone, wats go of f Schools go of f. Put the schools back into society. Teach him how to live with his environment, building the nation at the house.

Sarawak :- "1 don’t even want them to learn English. I don’t want the natives to go Into towns as pen pushers. Teach their forestry.".

I have started schools to teach mixed farming.

Buddhism :- GJ - Lenin’s widow, family.

Fighting against immoral influence. Prof. Christianity, good character, based on Buddhism.

Buddhism as main line, good foundations. The religions are the same in training.

The man provided by Buddhism will think of others as he thinks of himself.

(Christian).

Ideal Buddhism will take the best, not take the whole. We cannot make everybody into a Buddha.

R0F - Concentrate desires. "Either adopt or adapt."

The Clerk Disease, (Epidermis of Clerks), was the only defect in the last regime.

Fighter, Fist, energy, teeth.

Military Training?

"That’ll help us with Buddhist teaching. That’l]. give them the discipline, training for character."

Whom do the youth admire? 1) 2) 3)

Christian - "Giver of Siamese cus***, all comes from him.

Outside Siam who do students admire most?

fever.

Herri*** — Guum — Surout

We teach them to cling to Siamese traditions, Siamese dress etc. That’s the rope which binds the nation together.

I sent those who had been in Europe who had seen salt water, I sent to the provinces of the North, to see the local scholars.

We get stores from the country. Children are trained in Bangkok and won’t go back to the country.

I was at the Bar Frome Temple, a barrister. Very fine talk, strong personality, dressed in Siamese dress. Big room, pictures of Siamese Kings looked down.

ImDorts ~ Exports - Manager of Diellein

Lots of imports from China, from Japanese owned mills. ~ get the *****.

Grey yarns and grey shirting, most comes from China but from Japanese mills.

Reaction.

Coolie can afford to buy shirt of poplin, because of Japanese cheapness in poplin.

Japanese - Manager of firm Swiss

Yes Japanese influence growing very rapidly. The leading Siamese all have a great regard for the Japanese and respect for Japanese achievements. There is an increase in Japanese experts eg. Cotton expert. They can afford to come for nothing, or nearly nothing, because they know they can increase Japanese trade.

On this there enters a feeling of race. There is a growing reaction against the whites just as there is throughout Asia.

Japanese political Influence is certainly on the upgrade, of course it may be just a phase. But it’s certainly strong. Look at the part*** Commission, much evidence, visits to Japan etc.

"Don’t think the Kra Canal will be built."

"Japs behind the Prince?"

"It’s hard to say, it’s difficult to find out who the real rulers are. The present chiefs may have advisors behind them."

"The future Is uncertain, there’s a lot of discontent, but the Royalists seem dead. With the party there’ll be trouble. There are left living elements."

"They are calming down now in economic matters In view of the experience."

"It’s a one party and military dictatorship. The army is the real ruler.

There is tremendous growth of militarism. See the demonstration last Saturday. Look at the amount of money spent on the army. Look how they sent the army to the various schools."

"Why! To strengthen the regime. To have the army behind the regime."

The market is lost for textile goods. But there has been recently a reaction In favour of good quality goods, eg. In electrical machinery etc. The Japs are however improving the quality of production.

"There has been an increase in the numbers of Japanese here, a bigger Consulate General etc. But fewer Jap. shops, because the Chinese do all that."

"Two or three years ago, there were no politics here, it’s all new. The politicians change a lot, have no character and go over easily to another side for temporary advantages. That’s the East.

Goods from Japan, a lot come from Hong Kong and Singapore. Pradit is a dangerous man, a big force."

"Railway department, all British advisors and workers gone except for one foreman

Bangkok Times

All clocks kept half an hour ahead. They lunch at 12.00, but it’s really 11.30!

Two Japanese high off icers in the Siamese Army, but influence not great. "Don’t breathe a word, it always comes back."

Showed book and correspondence etc. Must be published whole. No extras, lovey dovey impossible.

Japanese influence very small. Japanophobia.

Moore - Japanese influence very small. They’re nationalistic.

Opposite P.O. Datsun

Came back next day sold sign. Yes, will increase sales.

1400, 1300. Austin 7 — 1500

"But the profit is small on Japanese cars. If they can produce them in large quantities, then they’ll go well.

1300 times this sum to Austin 7 at 1500, but the start is

stronger and bigger miles to the gallon. Datsun 50 - 55, Austin

7 — 45.

Belief in spirits, but most have lost belief. One rickshaw driver by R.C. cemetery took a man "Protestant Cemetery". He got there and disappeared. Driver said he was a spirit and that he had been buried in the Roman Catholic cemetery but was a protestant and wanted to go to the Protestant.

Offerings of food to spirits.

White is the colour of deepest mourning. Keep bodies for many months. Funeral is joyful.

Questions . Prime Minister

1) What were the causes of the Revolution?

2) What is the foreign policy of the new regime?

3) what is the economic policy of the new regime?

4) What attitude does the new regime adopt towards the doctrine

"Asia for the Asiates"?

5) Is it the future policy of the Government to train children

along military lines?

6) What part should the monarchy play in Siamese national life?

7) Why is the censorship of the press still maintained?

8) What attitude do you adopt towards Japanese trade and Naval

expansion? Is Siam contemplating an alliance with Japan?

9) What are the general principles underlying the constitution?

Great militarism throughout the schools.

Buddhism has had bad effect on nationalistic character. It leads

to laissing feure, no strivin

Some of the old princes were terrible corrupt with horrible faces too.

Women have no soul in Buddhism, that’s why the women do so much of the donkey work, that’s why they pray that they will be a man in the next incarnation.

Buddhism leads priests not to help beggars and diseased people very nuch. They regard it as punishment for misdeeds in former existence.

Great uncertainty. There have been some shootings, the Chief of Staff was shot at some time ago, luckily the bullet just grazed his neck.

You don’t hear what really happens, The Bankok Times published from the sphere something derogatory which a former British resident said about Siamese youth. The paper was obliged to make a recantation and public apology.

The Daily Mail was stopped by the Government because the American editor, a go getter, wouldn’t bow down to the Siamese Government.

- Wat Benjama Bopit Temple, huge gilt Buddha. Tea cups on the floor, drink tea while listening.

All Buddhas, according to the countries they come from, features differ, Chinese, Tibetans. One image of Buddha In the wilderness fasting.

Ploughing ceremony - Crowds, Royal Plough of Gold. Big yellow delegate car drives up with the two Regents, Prince Anuvat and Chao Phya Yomaraja.

The two regents sit in front of us on the carpet, a servant kneels and shuffles along on his knees, offering little blue cups of tea on a golden tray, and offers big cigars three times as thick.

In the field the Royal Plough red and gold with Siamese designs; delicate and thin. (Some cigars pink).

Four shrines, each with three banana trees, where they make offering to propitiate the spirits. On one there is a pig’s head. On top of each shrine are three white umbrellas.

Minister of agriculture: White robes with long hair are Brahmin priests. Minister of agriculture with left hand drives in, right hand holding the ceremonial gourd. He has crown rising to a spire. A Brahmin priest blows a conch shell, a low moaning resounding wierd sound.

In front an official in silk and gold coat pours blessed water over the earth.

Men in yellow and red coats and stripea green yellow ana rea trousers. The men (Brahmin) priests have long hair tied in a bun behind their head, kept for ceremonies.

A big grey dog which is crossed with a bulldog wanders over the field. In each shrine they put part of the industry they want to flourish, in one eg meat and one rice etc.

Gilded share (Then Oxen unyoked and fed with different kinds of rice).

Four women then come behind with gilded baskets containing seed. The man takes seed from behind as he goes and sows. Women have closely cropped hair (Eton crop) and have their teeth discoloured dark red by betel nuts.

Drawing the oxen in front and guiding the plough in front are three men in red, in red trousers and red cap. Men carrying brilliant red umbrellas.

Like Gorsedd.

The Minister comes and goes on knees before the Regent and puts his hand to his forehead in gesture of prayer and salutes three times. The oxen are unyoked. Over their backs silk with gold thread.

Two priests come with trays on which are maize, rice, beans etc.

Great length, oxen refuse, not hungry, a few giggles, no they won’t eat. Finally choose Indian corn, so it will, be best to sow Indian corn this year.

Then band of men in bright green come beating long green drums. One man plays a pipe, sounds like bagpipes. Then scramble for the seed ~ ~*. Sowed rice, (*****) Grass, beans, rice, maize.

Baxter - May - June 1934 - No 1 white rice trials 2.80 per fical today - 5.15 - 30

Rice aggregate ending Export March 1935 was 33,000,000 ticas, 5,000,000 higher than previous record ****.

Balanced budget for three years running and Rubber and tin have improved.

Note issue went up 31 March 1934 by 111,500,000 ticas to 133, 500,000.

Paid off the 7%, very large ~ is far in Siam is foreign trade, very strong features.

The country is a sound possibility except for the ineffectiveness of the regime, the deterioration of the administration. Many of the best men of the old regime are in prison or exile and the others know nothing at all. They’ve been thrown upon the Government with the most fantastic ideas and mixtures of all theories and all philosophies, badly digeste.

They simply haven’t got an economic program. Pradit is very very vague, doesn’t know what he’s talking about, he can’t argue, just grins and remains obstinate.

But it doesn’t matter much to the rest of the country, because as long as they grow rice etc. They can live.

No, the Japanese influence is small, of course some people have been caught by the Pan Asia idea, but It’s nationalism above all.

As for anti European feeling, the files in the legislation are full of reports years back refering to the same thing in the same words.

They have fantastic scheme of boot and shoe State Factories, state socialism then they drop it.

Ideas on banks, Central Bank to run everything, mix up central and African banks. Then the local government administration bill passed rapidly and no one read it, pooh poohed the Japanese influence.

20 September, Birthday celebrations of the new King.

Local administration Bill wanted a small legislative assembly for each 10 villages, illiterate, nobody read it. Passed. Trade with Japan

Newspaper cutting? Bangkok at 8

"The rich kingdom of Slam is becoming another battlefield in the ever growing trade war between Japan and Great Britain. Manufactured goods from Nippon are crowding out European goods and Great Britain is the greatest sufferer.

French trade is small and is not competitive with Japanese products, this is one reason for amicable relations between Japan and France in the Far East.Siam’s trade (in Bahts, 11 to the £)

1932 1933

Imports from UK 12,750,000 12,250,000

Japan 5,850,000 9,800,000

Exports to Japan 8,000,000 9,015,000

Siam wants Japan to buy Siamese rice (over 60% of the exports are rice). Japan is leading the field in wire, Silk, artificial silk, cotton goods, paper, bicycles, cement, rubber goods, blankets and wireless accessories.

There has been British financial advisor since 1896 and Siamese loans are well received on the London Exchange.

If Slam had substituted Japanese advisers, Siam’s currency, at present advantageously linked to sterling, would automatically shrink to the value of the Japanese Yen.

For this reason alone, the future of Siam must remain linked with that of Britain for many years to come.

But the Japanese trade wedge may become a decisive factor in

policy - United Press.

1934

Imports from Japan - 14,648,969

Great Britain - 10,866,675

(see previous page)

Direct, very confusing because of Singapore and Hong Kong.

1929 — 1930 baht 30—31

Imports from U.K 34,076,538 25,664,699

U.S 8,265,276 9,146,464

Jap 16,648,991 17,385,815

1933 - 4 Daht Singapore

Jap goods from UK 1,392,696 1,843,576

177,637 1,344,225

Nationality and tonnage of Ships cleared inwards (with Cargo)

1932—3 1933—4

British 231,776 tons 240,639

Danish 156,752 157,916

Dutch 73,291 74,193

Japanese 64,907 94,108

Norway 266,257 275,825

U.S 15,292 24,620

Siamese 81,209 74,518

Thus Japanese shipping not so terrific.

Bicycles

1932 —33 1933 — 34

Jap 947 5,246, bics UK 101 469

1932 - 1933 Only one car imported from Japan.

Increase in brigandge in countryside and thieves.

When I came home on jubilee night, great excitement, a thief had come In, Isods  excited, Boy opened door warily.

More thieves now, recently stole an electric fan.

Went buy an electric fan, Jap 25 ticas, others 35, 40, 65 tlcas. But wire is broken, repaired.

Toys from 1932-3 3 - 4 bahts

Japan 61,688 110,228

Cotton Singlets

33,975 204,229

No of 15,725 doz 105,049 doz

Plain artificial silk, white and dyed

Jap 166,948 438,855

But the imports (Total) went up from 274,132 bahts to 668,707 in 1933 — 4.

Leno Francis! Dozens of names.

Turkey Red Shirt in as tuns of India,

April 11, 1935

"India has this great interest that the establishment of Japanese economic dependency over Siam would bring a new international influence into an area which is contiguous with the frontier of Burma. In the past India’s foreign and defence policies have been dictated by considerations of the risk attaching to her North West frontier, where first the Russian menace and later the Afghan unrest were present. Should a new militant power establish itself on the Eastern border of Burma, India’s foreign and defence policies will need radical revision."

Teachers lowest, 8 - 9 ticas per month. (*** con~~ assembly).

Many native Secondary schools get 30 ticas a month. Clerks in Government offices average 30 ticas and between 20 - 30, average 30 cents. But native Chinese men cooks get 30 ticas from Europeans.

"Opera Comique", Stories,

White race being pushed out.

Japan :- We want to be known as the Japan of the South. Kra - idiotic why.

Minister of Education does nothing all, day, and when he’s finished doing that he starts all over again, look note printed each.

Tolerance, kindness, courtesy, hospitality, patience. Many of their qualities would be good if universal. Charm of manner.

As long as you have "Thomas de la Hind and Company Limited", London, Britain will have the say, not Japan.

Plight of English girls who marry Siamese (constitution) come have parents, chew Betel nuts, husband takes other wives. Police go hand in hand.

Young Kings nervous, sensitive, thoughtful of others. Mother very sensible, serious, careful of children, never dreamed that son would be King.

 Friday

Jap Minister

Siamese regard Japanese as elder brother, Japan is an example to them of a country that has freed itself and progressed rapidly.

In the last two years there has been an increase of intercourse, number of students. One reason, expense.

We compared Cambridge £250.

Siamese student could do 2,000 yen a year, travel much cheaper.

Example of progress, Japan is what Siam wants to be, but a few days ahead.

Then we have a link in religion, Buddhism is the national religion here.

Distance is less.

Formerly there was little intercourse with Siam, tryst treaty was in 1888, but in the last two years increase.

Difficulty is rice, Siamese rice is used in making beer and sweets, in October 1933 we passed a rice restriction and that stopped Siamese rice. But we hope that we will import more Siamese rice.

We are a mentor, not a leader. But it is right that we should play a big part among the asiatic peoples.

The younger people look up to Japan and say "If only we could do what they do". Pan Asian? Not strong because of nationalism.

Seial - Saxon Jeweller

We are done for in the Far East. The Japs are beating us. In 10 years time the white firms will be dead.

"We must deal the Japs a blow, smash them. We must have solidarity of the white race."

Little children make faces through the window.

Red Rose, hairdressing for ladies and gentlemen. Scatter selves with white powder.

Stephen Leacock, "the man behind the man"

eg. Asia, Japan supposed to be always behind someone.

Saturday

Train from Bangkok to Aranyi. Huts of straw and grass (new land of democracy), rice fields, very flat. Naked girl pouring water over herself, dirty klongs**.

Fields with pink lotus. Huts on the rivers with little temples. Lotus patches with water Buffalos wallowing in them. Holes near water dug for the Buffalos.

Idiotic to think that they’ll build the Kra. First they’ve got to get the workers. That means the Chinese, the Siamese won’t do it. Then machines at terrific cost. To do that you have got to float a loan. "Where? Tokyo?" No money "London?" Impossible.

"Suppose it were built, they would have to charge great dues to pass. Do you think vessels are going to pay vast sums just to save days? Some boats go around South Africa to save the Suez dues."

"Then Singapore is valuable, a free port, always freights to be picked up and cargos to be dropped."

1) Creusot rep. Went to the Ministry of Defence, "You have grand Air force, you must have illuminations or detectors to find out where they come from."

"Oh, we know where they come from"

"But that’s impossible. Air attacks are sudden"

"Oh, we’ll know and we’ll wipe them of f before they attack." "But how? How can you go to Singapore or French Indo China, or Japan? Impossible."

"Oh we never think of those. Our enemy aeroplanes would be here in Siam"

(Mentioned Navy, which is said to be pro kin

2) Minister of Defence writes to Minister of Public Works. "That road leading to the aerodrome is of military importance, may I have control of it?"

Minister of Public Works "Delighted".

Minister of Defence writes :- "Some Tilongs in the way, may I clear them?"

Minister of Public Works :- "Delighted etc".

Minister of Defence :- "There is a big canal which should be blocked, may I?"

Minister of Public Works :- "Delighted, so do it, but I should inform you that if you do it, it will cut off Bangkok’s water supply."

Vial - That’s Siam in a word.

3) British subject (from Ceylon) bought the rights to mine an area for tin. Good went there, found a Siamese, Siamesse said you can’t dig there, it’s mine. "No it’s mine." Showed papers, each had papers. Brought it up before the authorities. They said "You’re both right, but one of you has the right to the subsoil and one to the surface" and they couldn’t work it.

Ca, c’est Siam!

Buddhism. The missionaries have a terrible time trying to convert Buddhists.

Princess Pein

"1 am very sorry, my husband is not here. He is playing for the King’s Cup as Captain of the Siamese golf team."

Cambodian Frontier

Bus waiting, Frenchman with English accent. Porte de sivete, children are talismans. Flat country to Angkor. Stopped village, Opium den main street lined with French newspapers, chiefly in Intran*****.

On to Hotel Siemreap. Two conversations :-

1) Waiter "The cost of living is terrible, higher than anywhere else. All must be imported from France. Thus much suffering. If we had imports from Japan there would be a higher standard of living, the revolts might have been averted.

(Jap) goods are coming in just the same but they are most expensive. I bought this shirt for 1 piatre 25 at the frontier (Siam) but here it costs 4p 25. Oh if only we had free port like Singapore or like Siam, but we have to import all from France. Proprietor agreed, "La Vie Chere, taxes, taxes, taxes, Japanese goods are coming in.

Next day lost key of baggage, boy "On a trouve la clef". When it was not found at all, he meant he had to gone to get the reamo

The ride, shaded woods, boy on bicycle grin, drawing me. Magnificent sight, the lilies in the lake around of purple flowers. Stones of exquisite design. Two little puppies playing. Walk across the moat, inside to view. Then to the Vishni, a Buddha looking figure with 8 arms, the natives still give offerings, there were reeds (candles) in the bamboo root, reeds which had tops burnt. From one of the eight arms there was hanging a blue yellow and white kite, Vishni about 12 feet high.

One gold Buddha had yellow robe cast over one shoulder, calm, serene, indifferent. Before him were laid white lotus flowers, bamboo shoots. There was a stub with long black human hair tied

on. A candle which had burnt out and melted was bowing in his direction. I saw a yellow packet on the table with the words "Chan Kwong Hing, dealer in best quality joss sticks". I drew one out in an incense stick, I lit it and placed it on a bamboo root, smoke went up and the scent of incense carried me to Notre Dame, Paris.

Afternoon - Monkey, laughing girls, singing.

Bayou - Snakeskins on floor, not a sound, contrast to Angkor Wat, just a buzz of insects now and then.

Came to the scent of incense, came to Buddha, silence almost terrifying, no buts*.

Prom Khan

Fight way through brush wood. Big trees fallen in path, mind for snakes. Ker flies (shirt wet). Hut in the middle overgrown branches like snakes, beautiful carvings in stone, debris, hidden in earth, parts stones and leaves.

Monday 12

Left 6.45 from Siemreap, 7 piastrs a day. 10.30 arrived Kompang Thom, river dwellings, children afraid of camera. Mr Philips "May I play the piano to you".

Lunch 2 platEs. Man in ****, musician came in, long hair, shorts, brown khaki, big brown boots "Madame la directrice de l’instruction Publique". Then German songs.

Roman Catholic priest In bus also 4 bandits with 2 soldiers. Bandits were naked above the waist and were shackled and manacled, each had one hand free; Two couples together, they were tattoed, one had sores of disease. Priest said "Quatre pirates, probably guilty of robbery with violence and murder, are being taken to Pnompenh to be tried."

RC priest :- "The four cups are 1) Opium. The League of Nations General Is far away.

2) Lotus Flowers, brought originally as decoration from China, but now they’ve overgrown streams and made navigation difficult.

3) Ants. They build huge hills. I saw them, they can destroy a house. They bite the timber from inside, nobody knows until the house comes crashing down. They are white ants and Maeterlinck came here to study them when he wrote about ants.

4) The Bonzs Priests. They are ignorant and only repeat the prayers and ceremonies. They know nothing of philosophy and Buddhism. They are brought offerings from the people and live on them. They are a barrier to initiative, their lessons of evil and desire stops all progress.

The Annamites who are not Buddhists but Chinese are easier to convert.

Tigers and Panthers over there, pointing to woods. Many of them around Angkor.

Mohammipy, Maby,

4.30 - Came into Pnompenh, hotel Manoli. Took rickshaw (pousse) to Royal Palace; (The prisoners taken away) ~ convicts with armed guards In blue.

The palace like Siamese, huge foot of Buddha.

Went to the throne hail, magnificent throne with umbrellas behind the queens throne. Some fezes.

Sario Renault.

Car packed with children entering the palace. "Some of the kings children." ‘How many?’ "23, few are of the queen, two boys and two girls" ‘How many wives?’ "50 concubines and they are the dancers".

Went to the museum, fine gold work. A black bowler hat with diamond star and diamond top.

Heard laughter outside. Who? "Oh they are the slaves of the concubines".

Fat women trying to get something down from the trees.

Dinner after bath, Tartarn de Tarascon, then "Annamite Danss",

Indian bed, inside modern ***• Demanded money back. King of England, "whats Romphen?" Police - gave back ~

Opium den

a) little girl (6) sleeping on bench, silver bracelets.

b) afen**** family asleep.

C) pictures of ship

d) girl filling, turns grins and stops, man shouts, she goes on. e) temple in opium den big picture of china’s confucius, joss sticks burning.

Women at Pnompenh in ~** bus. (section in French).

Last page mainly french.

"je suis appele Ta Sar et suis depris plus de trente ames gardu charge d’en**** la vielleuse devant les statues de Buddha et les divinities bouddhique. etc.

series of dental appointments and a note - The nerve has been removed, the root has been filled, the temporary filling consists Zinc oxide, final filling needed.

Return to main file