Over 20 years ago I made the first of three visits to the Orkneys to dive the wrecks of the remaining German battle ships  The ferry left from the port of Scrabster to the Orkneys. After passing the famous Old Man of Hoy  we get the first impression of Stromness - that of an old traditional stone built port and seaward houses each with its own small jetty or slipway. There is an overpowering impression of greyness with the occasional red house brightening the scene. Here have fishermen have offloaded catches of lobster and crab for generations.  This view has greeted seafarers for centuries

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