WORLD JOURNEY ~
SIAM AMD CAMBODIA
Tuesday April 30th, 1935
Kistna
Woke up, looked out of porthole, a blaze of red trees on
bank, going up the river Menam in the flame of the forest. First impression,
primitive. Boat and fat Indian in brilliant uniform, white with gold,
guardian out of Arabian nights.
Then went to the Chinese Theatre, bright colours, all
talking, drum beating all the time, weird, silk dresses, dragons, change of
scene just rolling up the scene (no curtains).
In the audience mother next to me fed her baby, boys went
selling fruit (just like ****),
People chattered. The play was
probably bandits. The old father continually stroked beard.
Night
-
walked out, medley of people and noises. Saw beggar
- musician with instrument
with the four thin bamboo shoots of different sizes, which played a tune
like bagpipes, monotonous and melancholy. Little Siamese girl (about 8)
dancing, graceful slow dance, mainly in the movements of her fingers, she’d
have 1st finger making a circle, forming the letter ‘o’ with thumb, moves
hands slowly, then stretch the fingers and the palms back. She approached me
swaying, nearer and nearer, little boys and men watched as she fascinated me
with her eyes. Then, just as I thought she was going to touch me, she
dropped in prayer before me, putting her hands together.
Cons ul
Revolt of the disgruntled middle class. Personal element
uppermost.
Japan, don’t overestimate that, it’s largely a question
of legislation. Trade, yes, look at bargains.
Phase -
There was a Japanese phase before. No Jap
version. Nt Pan -
as bad nationalism.
Wednesday .
May 1st
Visited the Palace of Prince Damary, he
was one of the great men of Siam, builder of education, was a member of
council of the Ex King. When the Prince came, he was seized and dragged from
this palace and now lives in Penang in voluntary exile.
In the next house, a Gibbon leapt on the
roof.
String around the walls of the house, put
by priests for blessing of house, also for house warming. They also put that
saved lard around the ankles, wrist and neck of small children. (Never say
50, they say twice 25. They reckon in periods of 12’s, 12, 24
-
72. Very elaborate at 72)
Many children have gifts from important
people in the form of a chain from Prince Dam.
Chinese boy, shaves clean except for two
twists of hair to denote clan or family. (diagram of head)
Strong scents in gardens
Museum (1824
- 51)
of the Kings boats, gold and silver paddles, temple in the background. One
prow is the dragons head with sharp teeth and a gun protruding from the
mouth. Another prow -dragons
head with gun, teeth and big tusks, gold green and red head.
Vishnu mounting Gaudha
-
figure head of royal war barge in III and IV Keifs.
Gold demon with flame like forms extending
from arms and a savage head with big open eyeballs, sharp nose pointing
upwards and two sharp tusks. On the back stand Nishim, slim in deep shining
blue and with golden crown rising to a sharp point and four arms of Dragon
War Barge.
Buddhas in the attitude of meditation.
Figures of birds standing just like Birds of Aristophanes. One room
-
naked man in flames, Hell?
American girl who sat down on the royal
throne caused shock, Grand Palace closed down for a year afterwards.
The Gold tributary tree from Chiengimai.
May
~ -
Dined with Whittington of the Consulate and we went to a
Siamese dancing place. First thing we saw was Ella Millbank and Caroline
Salters~ The dancing was very slow on the stage, strange eastern rhythm of
band, tawdry atmosphere of beer etc.
Pretty girls dressed in bright colours
slowly moved arms and changed the position of the fingers until the fingers
were stretched right back. Some say that they can stretch the fingers back
until they touch the back of the wrist.
Then young man admires, he goes to the
stage, calls the girl he likes and gives her a bottle of beer. The girl goes
on her knees and puts her hand to salute and puts the beer bottle aside.
Sometimes you give a tical and she will give the garland of white flowers
which she wears over her left ear. Give her more and she ~1ill give the red
rose above her breast. Give her more and she will give the girdle (silver
like) over her shoulder. The girls take it all in amateur way, giggle,
laugh, make mistakes.
In the hall lot of dancing girls who make
eyes, in modern dress, chic. Danced with one, Waiter came over after and
said ‘The girl wants a brandy’. 1 Tical. The girl gets a commission, but it
is bad for the girls, makes them soak brandy all the time. Young bloods come
every night to pay homage to the same girl and to ask for flowers.
Museum
State Palace in which King was borne in the state
procession on Coronation Day. Umbrellas of gold, five tiered insignia
-
like a pagoda.
Relics of the great war, picked up by the
Siamese Expeditionary Force in France. Modern Rifles etc.
Sicksun
Mary Lee, cook ~ sloop of spirit, shirtmaker and change
hat (reshaping hat)
The Siamese are now in nationalistic mood, they are
reforming education and they are attacking the Chinese schools, afraid of
having another culture within the nation.
There is a great shortage of doctors and teachers,
perhaps too many lawyers.
Mrs D. The queen teaches the young King to pray, not the
long prayers but short.
Welsh "
club in University, Siamese singing
welsh songs.
This permit is issued to visit the Grand
Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha on Friday.
Rules and Regulations of the Ministry of
the Royal Household.
1) Visitors must dress properly. Western
dress for men must include collar and necktie. Visitors wearing
knickerbockers, plus fours, blazers, sweaters, shorts are not allowed in the
Royal precincts, ladies must wear stockings.
Royal
Palace
The Americans waiting room, pictures of Ex Kings looking
down. There’s no need for me to wear a coat, it’s not on the permit, it only
says collar and tie.
"Impudence!" "But you would wear it in the White House?"
"But this isn’t the White House, and the White House is Air cooled." "1 went
through Royal Palace of Cambodia" "But this is independent." "Ha! ha! ha!
Not" "Who rules here!" "Why the British!"
Saturday -
Lunched at Legation. There is
a lot of corruption, but a complete absence of any principles of democracy.
Heaps of people being arrested and imprisoned, no freedom of press etc.
There is an awakening in Siam but all ideas are mixed up nothing is clear.
Sunday
May
Dinner at Gotsabluh. Dr Koch is a great
supporter of the new
regime. They are doing very much more for
the people. The
princes used to have a lot of craft. They
owned rice mills in the name of other people and factories and often
contracts had to be given to these by official bodies although the price was
higher.
The people in the country are not so keen
on the King. They
understand the constitution and greet it
because it gives them certain rights. They are not so foolish. The Siamese
are quite right to make the Chinese learn Siamese in schools. The Siamese
have fine characteristics or else they would not have maintained their
independence.
Former American Minister at Bangkok,
Kaufman, meets King at the concert, draws cigar from pocket
:-
"Say King, have a cigar"
"I am the King and in
speech" Addressed the King as Excellency.
Monday,. May
~ Jubilee day
In morning drove to see Pra Riam, Vice President of the
Legislative assembly. A clever man with very sharp eyes, smiling.
:—
Asiatism : -
"No, we are nationalistic but
Pan-Asianism does not attract many. We realise that in our situation between
Great Britain and France we cannot adopt a movement which is antagonistic to
foreigners.
Nationalism, yes, but a sane nationalism.
With the Chinese we have come to compromise and concession on hours of
teaching.
Japanese
-
Impression that Japanese influence is not so strong.
Political
Parties -
At present one party
-
the people’s party, but I believe that one day political
parties will develop. There will be a Nationalistic Wing, a Socialist wing
etc.
We are moving towards a moderate type of
state Socialism. We want state control but not state ownership. As soon as
private man is able to carry on an industry, then the state will willingly
give it over. Not doctrinise.
One reason why people
want state control is to prevent our
J
industrial life from being dominated by
the Japanese and Chinese.
Reasons Revolt?
The Royal Family was getting all the privileges and being
sent to Europe. They were given 150 extra marks.
They were neglecting the education of the
people and spending too much money on their own personal needs.
The King was claiming too many rights. We
were willing to make concessions
but he insisted on those special rights. We want to develop certain
industries here.
Pra Riam took us to see the Royal Elephant which was
formerly housed in the Royal Palace. It’s a white (sd) elephant. This means
that it isn’t white at all but a slight albino with a little light pigment
around the eyes and on the feet. It was brought to the grounds of the
National Assembly after the Revolution. It was housed in a Temple
-
like stable, very high and painted a pinkish red colour. On
the floor was stretched the Elephant’s Keeper, fast asleep. Jumped up
speedily when a servant woke him. He went to the royal elephant and made him
go down on his hind legs, then go down in prayer.
The elephant was captured to the North of
Siam. They are very rare, and the capture of a white elephant is regarded as
an omen of happiness in a reign. In one reign, 14 white elephnats were
captured. That was considered a good reign. A number of people think they
are saved for the Kings ride upon them.
Very clever, but unreliable. Sometimes
they go mad and can be very dangerous.
There was a white monkey, (very rare), in
the cage outside. Little Siamese boy comes up to me with a banana. I thank
and do not know what to do, but find that I am to be the intermediary
between the boy and the monkey. A Siamese protects my hand from the monkey’s
claw.
(Kra canal in E. D. in a Beaver Brook
scare. They won’t build It. Cost too much. Don’t think the Japanese will
build it.)
We walked to the modern Throne Hall, built
by Italian architects in ornate style with a vast dome lit up. Here the
Legislative Assembly.
Write
:-
Charles Burke
Riam
-
"We are experiencing the French Revolution here."
E. D.
-
A class struggle, not any increase of Nationalism,
Japanese influence, slight.
Luang
Pradit writer Causes of the Revolution.
There was an absolute monarchy before the coup d’etat 24
June, 1932. (Led to favouritism and to abuse) to put an end to these that we
made the coup d’etat.
We consider that an absolute monarchy at a time of
economic depression was doing nothing for the development of the economy in
the country. A little before the coup d’etat we felt that the intellectual
class was demanding reforms.
Very young, hair black, going brushlike
upwards, round face like the moon, boyish.
The expectations of the absolute monarchy
were very high. Advantages:- If good King as Chulalary, then things go well.
But when there is a weak King who takes council of a few people and cannot
feel the pulse. (previous King was weak, relied on valet and father in law)
Economic measures
:-
Old regime depended too much on ~ fare which is being
abandoned in England.
The state must help private enterprise,
but do not want to go further than the co-operatives. I have made a
progression of cooperatives in the country and they accused me of being a
communist.
Just as in England there is a great
co—operation movement, as in Chockdale*. We want co-operatives but a lot of
people fear the intervention of the state.
"After the coup d’etat on June 24, 1932
the King signed a provisional constitution and in December 1932, the King
gave a definite constitution, and in March 1933, I presented to the council
of state, my economic plan, a plan of co-operation and not a communist plan.
The partisans of the King with the council of state profited by this
occasion to accuse me of being communist. (Was minister with portfolio) and
the King signed a decree dissolving the National Assembly and the suspension
of the Constitution. He tells sorti that the country was governed by the
King and Council of state chosen by the old officials, a step towards a
return to the anarchist regime of absolute power. They exiled me to Europe.
A few months later, June 20, 1933, my
friends made another coup d’etat to reopen the National Assembly and to
apply the condition and the King consented.
The new government recalled me from Europe
and in the October of the same year, there was a counter revolution led by
Prince Bovoradet, cousin of the King and former tutor of the King.
Before fighting the counter revolution
movement, we asked the King to return to the capital. The King refused. (A
few months before the counter revolution the King went to the seaside at
Hualin). and he escaped by small boat to the South of Siam and it was said
that he had the intention of going to Singapore.
The father in law took part in the counter
revolution.
After suppressing the revolt we sent a
delegate to ask the King to return to the capital, at the beginning the King
refused and on the insistence of the delegate he returned to B for a few
days for the ceremonial celebration of the constitution. A few days later he
went to Europe on the pretext of having his eyes seen to.
The origin of the abdication comes from
the coup d’etat 24, June and from the suspension of the constitution and
from the counter revolution led by some of the members of the Rozef our.
Foreign office
-
"Maintain treaties".
Japan
- In
view of the growing commerce we are severing trac~e with Japan, but in
foreign affairs we respect Japan, just like other powers.
Asia
As there may be some individuals who want to carry out the policy. Which
isn’t our policy.
Economically we have the **** to foreign credit
co-operatives.
We want to engage foreign experts instead of doing it all
ourselves. We are going to address ourselves to the league of Nations and
appeal to the council of the League of Nations to send here some experts.
We are still members of the League. We have paid our
annual subscription every year regularly. (China who asks for help has not
paid).
Cause of vote Assistant
****
should be specialised)
People remain faithful to the monarchy,
but to the constitutional monarchy. There is no republican movement.
Liberty of the Press
We’ve established a censorship. If a paper
publishes false news or any article susceptible of troubling, then we can
apply censor. They must send articles to be censored for a period of time,
say the week, the month. We cannot accord full liberty, because of the level
of culture of the people.
Omit favour, and absolve in beginning.
Please be careful. I do not want to hurt the King.
Luang Pradit
-
Manudharm, State Councillor for the Interior What the Kina
Wanted
1) Pardon, the right to pardon, which they feared would
be exercised for friends.
2) Abolition of secret trials. Military Tribunal. Open
trials in ordinary courts.
3) Abolition of appointed members of the Assembly. All
assembly elected by the people.
5) Free and open elections. The last election was held
after the rebellion. England, who assisted in suppressing the counter
revolution, had a medal "For the Safeguarding of the constitution." Demand
for new election, but was no representatives of the people.
Evans
The road to the British Embassy has been asphalted
with Japanese asphalt. The Japs import crude oil and asphalt as a by-product
and so they can sell the asphalt at a very low price.
There will be a military dictatorship, E.D. there is a
military dictatorship now with the army in the background.
Jubilee celebrations
Private May 7
American Minister, Mr Baker, pleasant gentleman.
"The newspapers here are greatly influenced by Japan. All
the news comes through Japan Rengo (Probably chegu). They are trying to
create the view that Japan is of international importance in the Far East".
Mrs Palmer -
Had letter from Siamese in
Philippines who had attended a private meeting of Japs in which they spoke
of dominating the Far East.
"Do you mean controlling also Siam?"
"Well, there should be Japanese influence
everywhere."
In crockery there is a great expansion of
Japanese trade. But during the boycott the Chinese boys often broke Japanese
crockery on purpose.
The Chinese have nearly all the retail and
wholesale trade, and they refused to import a lot of Jap goods but now they
are willing. Hence a reconciliation with China will have a big effect in
Siam, Java etc.
12.5
-
At lunch, message (mangosteens) P. M. see you noon! Rush!
Rush out to car in street, rushing to Foreign Office.
Soldier, honest, few ideas, in green
uniform, bluff no~ intellectual face. Kings of Siam look down. Sumptuous
surroundings, weapons of the old Siamese armies.
I apologised for coming in late.
Cigar case of silver with Siamese design
of the Garuda.
? complained false news had
been published, P.M had taken steps correct it, silly news, Times.
Stout, square round face, smile.
Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun) seen from river with the
broadcasting station behind. Gunboats, destroyer.
Canoe boat with coconuts being rowed along as in Venice.
Anot full of red earthern jugs, the man stands in the back.
Siamese Navy men in khaki uniforms.
Stood near the Royal landing
:-
procession of barges, rowed by 40, with a musical rhythm and
a yell (cry) each time they bring the oar up perpendicular.
Bamboo
The most useful all round plant, a whole house including
furniture could be made out of bamboo. That’s Basketwork, fishing stake,
paper pulp, vegetable, seeds can be eaten like rice.
Scented woods, Chaulinugra
-
the oil of this is the only cure forleprosy in China and
Siam.Castor Oil plants, castor beans, look like ordinary beans (haricot) but
they are light greyish with brown spots.
Gutter
-
violin strings, masses of round resin, shape of kneaded
bread.
Stellac
-
Secretion that grows on trees caused by insects. Insect oozes out of body a
certain juice on tree, looks like fungus. Stellac
-
gramophone records, varnishing for cars. (stuken used to
smuggle opium). Insulating material from Stellac. Rubber, Coffee.
Diagram (map)
-
Japans foreign Traders
Minister
of Education
End June 2,777 Scholar (all) 1,046,316. (1934) Made a
push, drove in everybody.
In the year 2777 Pra Sarasastra Prabhand 2778
We must teach them, native, labour, vocational training.
Defect
- scholars can’t
go back old socialism. Adjusting period (1350
-
1750) all education left to the wats.
2456
-
Society stands alone, wats go of f Schools go of f. Put the
schools back into society. Teach him how to live with his environment,
building the nation at the house.
Sarawak
:-
"1 don’t even want them to learn English. I don’t want the
natives to go Into towns as pen pushers. Teach their forestry.".
I have started schools to teach mixed
farming.
Buddhism
:- GJ
-
Lenin’s widow, family.
No! No! Family foundation. Lenin
-
Atheism? Must have fait in religion or
have no faith in self.
The Wats are fine Naval
training. They are as good as Eton or
Harrow.
Fighting against immoral influence. Prof.
Christianity, good character, based on Buddhism.
Buddhism as main line, good foundations.
The religions are the same in training.
The man provided by Buddhism will think of
others as he thinks of himself.
(Christian).
Ideal Buddhism will take the best, not
take the whole. We cannot make everybody into a Buddha.
R0F
-
Concentrate desires. "Either adopt or adapt."
The Clerk Disease, (Epidermis of Clerks),
was the only defect in the last regime.
Fighter, Fist, energy, teeth.
Military
Training?
"That’ll help us with Buddhist teaching. That’l]. give
them the discipline, training for character."
Whom do the youth admire? 1) 2) 3)
Christian -
"Giver of Siamese cus***, all comes
from him.
Outside Siam who do students admire most?
1) Louis Pasteur, greater than Napoleon.
2) Great pioneers of science, Lister.
3) Florence Nightingale
4) Dr Reed, American Doctor who
discovered how to cure yellow
fever.
Herri***
— Guum
—
Surout
We teach them to cling to Siamese
traditions, Siamese dress etc. That’s the rope which binds the nation
together.
I sent those who had been in Europe who
had seen salt water, I sent to the provinces of the North, to see the local
scholars.
We get stores from the country. Children
are trained in Bangkok and won’t go back to the country.
I was at the Bar Frome Temple, a
barrister. Very fine talk, strong personality, dressed in Siamese dress. Big
room, pictures of Siamese Kings looked down.
ImDorts
~
Exports
-
Manager of Diellein
Lots of imports from China, from Japanese
owned mills. ~ get the *****.
Grey yarns and grey shirting, most comes
from China but from Japanese mills.
Reaction.
Coolie can afford to buy shirt of poplin,
because of Japanese cheapness in poplin.
Japanese
-
Manager of firm Swiss
Yes Japanese influence growing very
rapidly. The leading Siamese all have a great regard for the Japanese and
respect for Japanese achievements. There is an increase in Japanese experts
eg. Cotton expert. They can afford to come for nothing, or nearly nothing,
because they know they can increase Japanese trade.
On this there enters a feeling of race.
There is a growing reaction against the whites just as there is throughout
Asia.
Japanese political Influence is certainly
on the upgrade, of course it may be just a phase. But it’s certainly strong.
Look at the part*** Commission, much evidence, visits to Japan etc.
"Don’t think the Kra Canal will be built."
"Japs behind the Prince?"
"It’s hard to say, it’s difficult to find
out who the real rulers are. The present chiefs may have advisors behind
them."
"The future Is uncertain, there’s a lot of
discontent, but the Royalists seem dead. With the party there’ll be trouble.
There are left living elements."
"They are calming down now in economic
matters In view of the experience."
"It’s a one party and military
dictatorship. The army is the real ruler.
There is tremendous growth of militarism.
See the demonstration last Saturday. Look at the amount of money spent on
the army. Look how they sent the army to the various schools."
"Why! To strengthen the regime. To have
the army behind the regime."
The market is lost for textile goods. But
there has been recently a reaction In favour of good quality goods, eg. In
electrical machinery etc. The Japs are however improving the quality of
production.
"There has been an increase in the numbers
of Japanese here, a bigger Consulate General etc. But fewer Jap. shops,
because the Chinese do all that."
"Two or three years ago, there were no
politics here, it’s all new. The politicians change a lot, have no character
and go over easily to another side for temporary advantages. That’s the
East.
Goods from Japan, a lot come from Hong
Kong and Singapore. Pradit is a dangerous man, a big force."
"Railway department, all British advisors
and workers gone except for one foreman
Bangkok
Times
All clocks kept half an hour ahead. They lunch at 12.00,
but it’s really 11.30!
Two Japanese high off icers in the Siamese Army, but
influence not great. "Don’t breathe a word, it always comes back."
Showed book and correspondence etc. Must be published
whole. No extras, lovey dovey impossible.
Japanese influence very small. Japanophobia.
Moore -
Japanese influence very small.
They’re nationalistic.
Opposite
P.O. Datsun
Came back next day sold sign. Yes, will increase sales.
1400, 1300. Austin 7 —
1500
"But the profit is small on Japanese cars.
If they can produce them in large quantities, then they’ll go well.
1300 times this sum to Austin 7 at 1500,
but the start is
stronger and bigger miles to the gallon.
Datsun 50 -
55, Austin
7
—
45.
Belief in spirits, but most have lost
belief. One rickshaw driver by R.C. cemetery took a man "Protestant
Cemetery". He got there and disappeared. Driver said he was a spirit and
that he had been buried in the Roman Catholic cemetery but was a protestant
and wanted to go to the Protestant.
Offerings of food to spirits.
White is the colour of deepest mourning.
Keep bodies for many months. Funeral is joyful.
Questions
. Prime Minister
1) What were the causes of the Revolution?
2) What is the foreign policy of the new regime?
3) what is the economic policy of the new regime?
4) What attitude does the new regime adopt towards the
doctrine
"Asia for the Asiates"?
5) Is it the future policy of the Government to train
children
along military lines?
6) What part should the monarchy play in Siamese national
life?
7) Why is the censorship of the press still maintained?
8) What attitude do you adopt towards Japanese trade and
Naval
expansion? Is Siam contemplating an alliance with Japan?
9) What are the general principles underlying the
constitution?
Edwards
Great militarism throughout the schools.
Buddhism has had bad effect on nationalistic character.
It leads
to laissing feure, no strivin
Some of the old princes were terrible
corrupt with horrible faces too.
Women have no soul in Buddhism, that’s why
the women do so much of the donkey work, that’s why they pray that they will
be a man in the next incarnation.
Buddhism leads priests not to help beggars
and diseased people very nuch. They regard it as punishment for misdeeds in
former existence.
Great uncertainty. There have been some
shootings, the Chief of Staff was shot at some time ago, luckily the bullet
just grazed his neck.
You don’t hear what really happens, The
Bankok Times published from the sphere something derogatory which a former
British resident said about Siamese youth. The paper was obliged to make a
recantation and public apology.
The Daily Mail was stopped by the
Government because the American editor, a go getter, wouldn’t bow down to
the Siamese Government.
- Wat
Benjama Bopit Temple, huge gilt Buddha. Tea cups on the floor, drink tea
while listening.
All Buddhas, according to the countries
they come from, features differ, Chinese, Tibetans. One image of Buddha In
the wilderness fasting.
Ploughing
ceremony -
Crowds, Royal Plough of Gold. Big
yellow delegate car drives up with the two Regents, Prince Anuvat and Chao
Phya Yomaraja.
The two regents sit in front of us on the
carpet, a servant kneels and shuffles along on his knees, offering little
blue cups of tea on a golden tray, and offers big cigars three times as
thick.
In the field the Royal Plough red and gold
with Siamese designs; delicate and thin. (Some cigars pink).
Four shrines, each with three banana
trees, where they make offering to propitiate the spirits. On one there is a
pig’s head. On top of each shrine are three white umbrellas.
Minister of agriculture: White robes with
long hair are Brahmin priests. Minister of agriculture with left hand drives
in, right hand holding the ceremonial gourd. He has crown rising to a spire.
A Brahmin priest blows a conch shell, a low moaning resounding wierd sound.
In front an official in silk and gold coat
pours blessed water over the earth.
Men in yellow and red coats and stripea
green yellow ana rea trousers. The men (Brahmin) priests have long hair tied
in a bun behind their head, kept for ceremonies.
A big grey dog which is crossed with a
bulldog wanders over the field. In each shrine they put part of the industry
they want to flourish, in one eg meat and one rice etc.
Gilded share (Then Oxen unyoked and fed
with different kinds of rice).
Four women then come behind with gilded
baskets containing seed. The man takes seed from behind as he goes and sows.
Women have closely cropped hair (Eton crop) and have their teeth discoloured
dark red by betel nuts.
Drawing the oxen in front and guiding the
plough in front are three men in red, in red trousers and red cap. Men
carrying brilliant red umbrellas.
Like Gorsedd.
The Minister comes and goes on knees
before the Regent and puts his hand to his forehead in gesture of prayer and
salutes three times. The oxen are unyoked. Over their backs silk with gold
thread.
Two priests come with trays on which are
maize, rice, beans etc.
Great length, oxen refuse, not hungry, a
few giggles, no they won’t eat. Finally choose Indian corn, so it will, be
best to sow Indian corn this year.
Then band of men in bright green come
beating long green drums. One man plays a pipe, sounds like bagpipes. Then
scramble for the seed ~ ~*.
Sowed rice,
(*****)
Grass, beans, rice, maize.
Baxter
- May
-
June 1934
- No 1
white rice trials 2.80 per fical today -
5.15
-
30
Rice aggregate ending Export March 1935
was 33,000,000 ticas, 5,000,000 higher than previous record
****.
Balanced budget for three years running
and Rubber and tin have improved.
Note issue went up 31 March 1934 by
111,500,000 ticas to 133, 500,000.
Paid off the 7%, very large ~ is far in
Siam is foreign trade, very strong features.
The country is a sound possibility except
for the ineffectiveness of the regime, the deterioration of the
administration. Many of the best men of the old regime are in prison or
exile and the others know nothing at all. They’ve been thrown upon the
Government with the most fantastic ideas and mixtures of all theories and
all philosophies, badly digeste.
They simply haven’t got an economic
program. Pradit is very very vague, doesn’t know what he’s talking about, he
can’t argue, just grins and remains obstinate.
But it doesn’t matter much to the rest of
the country, because as long as they grow rice etc. They can live.
No, the Japanese influence is small, of
course some people have been
caught by the Pan Asia idea, but It’s
nationalism above all.
As for anti European feeling, the files in the
legislation are full of reports years back refering to the same thing in the
same words.
They have fantastic scheme of boot and shoe State
Factories, state socialism then they drop it.
Ideas on banks, Central Bank to run everything, mix up
central and African banks. Then the local government administration bill
passed rapidly and no one read it, pooh poohed the Japanese influence.
20 September, Birthday celebrations of the new
King.
Local administration Bill wanted a small legislative
assembly for each 10 villages, illiterate, nobody read it. Passed. Trade
with Japan
Newspaper cutting? Bangkok at 8
"The rich kingdom of Slam is becoming another battlefield
in the ever growing trade war between Japan and Great Britain. Manufactured
goods from Nippon are crowding out European goods and Great Britain is the
greatest sufferer.
French trade is small and is not competitive with
Japanese products, this is one reason for amicable relations between Japan
and France in the Far East.Siam’s trade (in Bahts, 11 to the £)
1932 1933
Imports from UK 12,750,000 12,250,000
Japan 5,850,000 9,800,000
Exports to Japan 8,000,000 9,015,000
Siam wants Japan to buy Siamese rice (over 60% of the
exports are rice). Japan is leading the field in wire, Silk, artificial
silk, cotton goods, paper, bicycles, cement, rubber goods, blankets and
wireless accessories.
There has been British financial advisor since 1896 and
Siamese loans are well received on the London Exchange.
If Slam had substituted Japanese advisers,
Siam’s currency, at present advantageously linked to sterling, would
automatically shrink to the value of the Japanese Yen.
For this reason alone, the future of Siam
must remain linked with that of Britain for many years to come.
But the Japanese trade wedge may become a
decisive factor in
policy
-
United Press.
1934
Imports from Japan
-
14,648,969
Great Britain
-
10,866,675
(see previous page)
Direct, very confusing because of
Singapore and Hong Kong.
1929
—
1930 baht 30—31
Imports from U.K 34,076,538 25,664,699
U.S 8,265,276 9,146,464
Jap 16,648,991 17,385,815
1933
-
4 Daht Singapore
Jap goods from UK 1,392,696 1,843,576
177,637 1,344,225
Shipping
Nationality and tonnage of Ships cleared inwards (with
Cargo)
1932—3 1933—4
British 231,776 tons 240,639
Danish 156,752 157,916
Dutch 73,291 74,193
Japanese 64,907 94,108
Norway 266,257 275,825
U.S 15,292 24,620
Siamese 81,209 74,518
Thus Japanese shipping not so terrific.
Bicycles
1932 —33 1933 —
34
Jap 947 5,246, bics UK 101 469
1932
-
1933 Only one car imported from Japan.
Increase in brigandge in countryside and
thieves.
When I came home on jubilee night, great
excitement, a thief had come In, Isods excited, Boy opened door
warily.
More thieves now, recently stole an
electric fan.
Went buy an electric fan, Jap 25 ticas,
others 35, 40, 65 tlcas. But wire is broken, repaired.
Toys from 1932-3 3
-
4 bahts
Japan 61,688 110,228
Cotton Singlets
33,975 204,229
No of 15,725 doz 105,049 doz
Plain artificial silk, white and dyed
Jap 166,948 438,855
But the imports (Total) went up from
274,132 bahts to 668,707 in 1933 —
4.
Leno Francis! Dozens of names.
Turkey
Red Shirt in as tuns of India,
April 11, 1935
"India has this great interest that the establishment of
Japanese economic dependency over Siam would bring a new international
influence into an area which is contiguous with the frontier of Burma. In
the past India’s foreign and defence policies have been dictated by
considerations of the risk attaching to her North West frontier, where first
the Russian menace and later the Afghan unrest were present. Should a new
militant power establish itself on the Eastern border of Burma, India’s
foreign and defence policies will need radical revision."
Teachers lowest, 8 -
9 ticas per month.
(***
con~~ assembly).
Many native Secondary schools get 30 ticas
a month. Clerks in Government offices average 30 ticas and between 20
-
30, average 30 cents. But native Chinese men cooks get 30
ticas from Europeans.
Vial
"Opera Comique", Stories,
1) Mm Defence Cremott, go Naval ministry, Internal
2) Ministry of Defence road, yes canal. "Yes, oh
certainly, but
water supply.
3) Mine, subsoil and surface
Character..
Japs disappointed, no knowledge of Geography, frontiers
vague, couldn’t find map in University search, ordered map.
Lecturer in History is the Regent. Lecturer in French
is the president of the assembly.
Exams, Regent.
One of the students who failed was a deputy, passed law
that man who failed should be able to try three times.
White race being pushed out.
Japan
:- We
want to be known as the Japan of the South. Kra
-
idiotic why.
Minister of Education does nothing all,
day, and when he’s finished doing that he starts all over again, look note
printed each.
Qualities
Tolerance, kindness, courtesy, hospitality, patience.
Many of their qualities would be good if universal. Charm of manner.
As long as you have "Thomas de la Hind and Company
Limited", London, Britain will have the say, not Japan.
Plight of English girls who marry Siamese (constitution)
come have parents, chew Betel nuts, husband takes other wives. Police go
hand in hand.
Young Kings nervous, sensitive, thoughtful of others.
Mother very sensible, serious, careful of children, never dreamed that son
would be King.
Friday
Jap Minister
Siamese regard Japanese as elder brother, Japan is an
example to them of a country that has freed itself and progressed rapidly.
In the last two years there has been an increase of
intercourse, number of students. One reason, expense.
We compared Cambridge £250.
Siamese student could do 2,000 yen a year, travel much
cheaper.
Example of progress, Japan is what Siam wants to be, but
a few days ahead.
Then we have a link in religion, Buddhism is the national
religion here.
Distance is less.
Formerly there was little intercourse with Siam, tryst
treaty was in 1888, but in the last two years increase.
Difficulty is rice, Siamese rice is used in making beer
and sweets, in October 1933 we passed a rice restriction and that stopped
Siamese rice. But we hope that we will import more Siamese rice.
We are a mentor, not a leader. But it is right that we
should play a big part among the asiatic peoples.
The younger people look up to Japan and say "If only we
could do what they do". Pan Asian? Not strong because of nationalism.
Seial -
Saxon Jeweller
We are done for in the Far East. The Japs
are beating us. In 10 years time the white firms will be dead.
"We must deal the Japs a blow, smash them.
We must have solidarity of the white race."
Little children make faces through the
window.
Red Rose, hairdressing for ladies and
gentlemen. Scatter selves with white powder.
Stephen Leacock, "the man behind the man"
eg. Asia, Japan supposed to be always
behind someone.
Saturday
Train from Bangkok to Aranyi. Huts of straw and grass
(new land of democracy), rice fields, very flat. Naked girl pouring water
over herself, dirty klongs**.
Fields with pink lotus. Huts on the rivers with little
temples. Lotus patches with water Buffalos wallowing in them. Holes near
water dug for the Buffalos.
Vial?
Idiotic to think that they’ll build the Kra. First
they’ve got to get the workers. That means the Chinese, the Siamese won’t do
it. Then machines at terrific cost. To do that you have got to float a loan.
"Where? Tokyo?" No money "London?" Impossible.
"Suppose it were built, they would have to charge great
dues to pass. Do you think vessels are going to pay vast sums just to save
days? Some boats go around South Africa to save the Suez dues."
"Then Singapore is valuable, a free port, always freights
to be picked up and cargos to be dropped."
Stories
1) Creusot rep. Went to the Ministry of Defence, "You
have grand Air force, you must have illuminations or detectors to find out
where they come from."
"Oh, we know where they come from"
"But that’s impossible. Air attacks are sudden"
"Oh, we’ll know and we’ll wipe them of f before they
attack." "But how? How can you go to Singapore or French Indo China, or
Japan? Impossible."
"Oh we never think of those. Our enemy aeroplanes would
be here in Siam"
(Mentioned Navy, which is said to be pro kin
2) Minister of Defence writes to Minister
of Public Works. "That road leading to the aerodrome is of military
importance, may I have control of it?"
Minister of Public Works "Delighted".
Minister of Defence writes
:-
"Some Tilongs in the way, may I clear them?"
Minister of Public Works
:-
"Delighted etc".
Minister of Defence
:-
"There is a big canal which should be blocked, may I?"
Minister of Public Works
:-
"Delighted, so do it, but I should inform you that if you do
it, it will cut off Bangkok’s water supply."
Vial
-
That’s Siam in a word.
3) British subject (from Ceylon) bought
the rights to mine an area for tin. Good went there, found a Siamese,
Siamesse said you can’t dig there, it’s mine. "No it’s mine." Showed papers,
each had papers. Brought it up before the authorities. They said "You’re
both right, but one of you has the right to the subsoil and one to the
surface" and they couldn’t work it.
Ca, c’est Siam!
Buddhism. The missionaries have a terrible
time trying to convert Buddhists.
Princess
Pein
"1 am very sorry, my husband is not here. He is playing
for the King’s Cup as Captain of the Siamese golf team."
Cambodian Frontier
Bus waiting, Frenchman with English accent. Porte de
sivete, children are talismans. Flat country to Angkor. Stopped village,
Opium den main street lined with French newspapers, chiefly in Intran*****.
On to Hotel Siemreap. Two conversations
:-
1) Waiter "The cost of living is terrible,
higher than anywhere else. All must be imported from France. Thus much
suffering. If we had imports from Japan there would be a higher standard of
living, the revolts might have been averted.
(Jap) goods are coming in just the same
but they are most expensive. I bought this shirt for 1 piatre 25 at the
frontier (Siam) but here it costs 4p 25. Oh if only we had free port like
Singapore or like Siam, but we have to import all from France. Proprietor
agreed, "La Vie Chere, taxes, taxes, taxes, Japanese goods are coming in.
Next day lost key of baggage, boy "On a
trouve la clef". When it was not found at all, he meant he had to gone to
get the reamo
Angkor
The ride, shaded woods, boy on bicycle grin, drawing me.
Magnificent sight, the lilies in the lake around of purple flowers. Stones
of exquisite design. Two little puppies playing. Walk across the moat,
inside to view. Then to the Vishni, a Buddha looking figure with 8 arms, the
natives still give offerings, there were reeds (candles) in the bamboo root,
reeds which had tops burnt. From one of the eight arms there was hanging a
blue yellow and white kite, Vishni about 12 feet high.
Small hindu designs and exquisite carving. Big, dark
frown, butterfly hovers through the corridors. Birds dart swiftly past the
images. Orange, white and black butterfly. Country specialises in Orange,
the orange and black beetle, bright orange woodpecker and yellow
butterflies.
Entered the main building, twittering squeaking of birds.
Heard a chant moved on, dozens of Buddha images, some covered in gold, three
priests listened to the reading of the Buddhist scriptures, two deep in
thought, would they reach Nirvana? Other wandered, looked in each direction,
calm Buddhas looked down, all round hindu design, but here Buddhism has
triumphed. Candle burning before the Buddha, old man, grey short hair, naked
above the waist praying.
Some of the Buddhas had a small reed stuck in a crack in
the foot, same place as where the nail entered Christ’s foot. Some had reeds
(thin and about 4 -
6 inches long) painted red and
green.
One gold Buddha had yellow robe cast over
one shoulder, calm, serene, indifferent. Before him were laid white lotus
flowers, bamboo shoots. There was a stub with long black human hair tied
on. A candle which had burnt out and
melted was bowing in his direction. I saw a yellow packet on the table with
the words "Chan Kwong Hing, dealer in best quality joss sticks". I drew one
out in an incense stick, I lit it and placed it on a bamboo root, smoke went
up and the scent of incense carried me to Notre Dame, Paris.
Several kites of red, white, black,
yellow, green made from old dresses were hanging down in material possibly
from France. Fate -
part of the cloth
-
chic, Parisienne part before a Buddha. Cizord.
Afternoon
-
Monkey, laughing girls, singing.
Bayou
-
Snakeskins on floor, not a sound, contrast to Angkor Wat,
just a buzz of insects now and then.
Came to the scent of incense, came to
Buddha, silence almost terrifying, no buts*.
Climb, then wherever you go or turn great
faces look down, calm, scrutinising, seems to be peopled. Forests all
around, eerie, feeling that your being watched. Ghostly haunted, Lizard
glides like snake. Silence, you jump, coo coo of pigeon. Not a single
butterfly.
Two red
feet of Buddha, exquisitely designed, with carvings of people praying, gold
circle in the middle.
Royal
Palace -
overgrown elephant, priests
Prom
Khan
Fight way through brush wood. Big trees fallen in path,
mind for snakes. Ker flies (shirt wet). Hut in the middle overgrown branches
like snakes, beautiful carvings in stone, debris, hidden in earth, parts
stones and leaves.
Monday 12
Left 6.45 from Siemreap, 7 piastrs a day.
10.30 arrived Kompang Thom, river dwellings, children afraid of camera. Mr
Philips "May I play the piano to you".
Lunch 2 platEs. Man in
****,
musician came in, long hair, shorts, brown khaki, big brown
boots "Madame la directrice de l’instruction Publique". Then German songs.
Roman Catholic priest In bus also 4
bandits with 2 soldiers. Bandits were naked above the waist and were
shackled and manacled, each had one hand free;
Two
couples together, they were tattoed, one had sores of
disease. Priest said "Quatre pirates, probably guilty of robbery with
violence and murder, are being taken to Pnompenh to be tried."
RC priest
:-
"The four cups are 1) Opium. The League of Nations General Is
far away.
2) Lotus Flowers, brought originally as
decoration from China, but now they’ve overgrown streams and made navigation
difficult.
3) Ants. They build huge hills. I saw
them, they can destroy a house. They bite the timber from inside, nobody
knows until the house comes crashing down. They are white ants and
Maeterlinck came here to study them when he wrote about ants.
4) The Bonzs Priests. They are ignorant
and only repeat the prayers and ceremonies. They know nothing of philosophy
and Buddhism. They are brought offerings from the people and live on them.
They are a barrier to initiative, their lessons of evil and desire stops all
progress.
The Annamites who are not Buddhists but
Chinese are easier to convert.
Tigers and Panthers over there, pointing
to woods. Many of them around Angkor.
Mohammipy, Maby,
4.30
-
Came into Pnompenh, hotel Manoli. Took rickshaw (pousse) to
Royal Palace; (The prisoners taken away) ~ convicts with armed guards In
blue.
The palace like Siamese, huge foot of
Buddha.
Went to the throne hail, magnificent
throne with umbrellas behind the queens throne. Some fezes.
Sario Renault.
Car packed with children entering the
palace. "Some of the kings children." ‘How many?’ "23, few are of the queen,
two boys and two girls" ‘How many wives?’ "50 concubines and they are the
dancers".
Went to the museum, fine gold work. A
black bowler hat with diamond star and diamond top.
Heard laughter outside. Who? "Oh they are
the slaves of the concubines".
Fat women trying to get something down
from the trees.
Dinner after bath, Tartarn de Tarascon,
then "Annamite Danss",
Indian bed, inside modern
***•
Demanded money back. King of England, "whats Romphen?" Police
- gave
back ~
Pnompenh
Opium den
a) little girl (6) sleeping on bench, silver bracelets.
b) afen**** family asleep.
C)
pictures of ship
d) girl filling, turns grins and stops,
man shouts, she goes on. e) temple in opium den big picture of china’s
confucius, joss sticks burning.
Women at Pnompenh in
~**
bus. (section in French).
Last page mainly french.
"je suis appele Ta Sar et suis depris plus
de trente ames gardu charge d’en**** la vielleuse devant les statues de
Buddha et les divinities bouddhique. etc.
series of dental appointments and a note
-
The nerve has been removed, the root has been filled, the
temporary filling consists Zinc oxide, final filling needed.
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